aftermarket "Cast-Steel" 2.8l crank.

[Driver_10]

Im not sure how many of you are aware of this, but there is a 2.8l steel crank that is available through Eagle. It cost about $160 and should be good for an aggressive engine build. (Just a thought.)

The part/ casting# through "Eagle" is ESP10173817.

[geoffinbc]

Well I have never heard of anyone breaking a stock crank yet. With the 3500 forged cranks available for modification I don't think many people would consider the eagle crank. Also the stroke is the same as a 2.8L and most people are after the larger stroke.

[Driver_10]

True, but now there are more options available for the platform.

Heres an idea...

high-reving, destroked 3.4l / long-rod combo with 3500 top-end for bracket and dirt-track racing....
Or maybe a destroked, DOHC screamer....

All built for veritable pocket-change.

[MidnightriderZ24]

would be a nice build. by the looks of it u would need a crank trigger though.

[Driver_10]

would be a nice build. by the looks of it u would need a crank trigger though.

Ya know, to be completely honest, I dont know if that particular crank has a timing wheel attached.

However, It still opens up great possibilties.

[bszopi]

Its been discussed before, although almost 2 years ago...

http://60degreev6.com/forum/showpost.php?p=315100&postcount=6

[weba]

Hmmh interesting.. cause i'm planning to build my low mileage 3.1 to hybrid, but i'd rather have the 2.8 shorter stroke, that could be the way to go Tho i would need rods too?

[SappySE107]

I don't think you can get this crank any longer. They were selling them off for 50 bucks a while back and when I tried to get some, I couldn't.

[geoffinbc]

Hmmh interesting.. cause i'm planning to build my low mileage 3.1 to hybrid, but i'd rather have the 2.8 shorter stroke, that could be the way to go Tho i would need rods too?

Get a stock 2.8L Crank. Maybe put it on a 3.4L or 3400 block and then you get a big bore short stroke screamer (think Chevy 302 idea) Either of those blocks would have provisions for a crank sensor too. Actually I guess your 3.1L FWD block would have the crank sensor too. You wont need custom rods but you will need pistons. However if you make your 3.1L a short stroke motor you can use stock 2.8L pistons.

[weba]

Get a stock 2.8L Crank. Maybe put it on a 3.4L or 3400 block and then you get a big bore short stroke screamer

Finding any of those parts here from europe can be pretty damn hard, so if i can buy that brand new 'cast-steel' crank one from Eagle, that would be the way to go and use it on my FWD 3.1 block. After doing the what ever changes required for crank trigger and all...

I can see they have that crank on the 2008 catalog, so there might be a change to get it, who knows.

Anyhow, you'r saying i could not use 3.1 rods and.or pistons with this setup?
Or if i could, what kind of compression would i look with 3400 heads then?


Thanks.

[IsaacHayes]

Pistons need to be for the crank. So a 2.8 crank needs 2.8 pistons. If you are running a 3100/3.1L block you can use the 2.8 FWD pistons, or 2.8 RWD pistons for a boost in compression. If you have a 3400 block you can run 3500 heads then, and will need custom pistons, because there never was a short stroke motor with that size bore to use the pistons from.

The 3100/3.1L blocks can't accept 3500 heads as the combustion chamber overlaps the bore. But they can take 3400 heads. Compression will be even higher with 3400 heads and RWD pistons though.

....

so you could build a 2800 with high compression with stock parts. But you'll have over 11 compression. Use the compression calc to find out what it would be.

[Canyonero]

Well I have never heard of anyone breaking a stock crank yet. With the 3500 forged cranks available for modification I don't think many people would consider the eagle crank. Also the stroke is the same as a 2.8L and most people are after the larger stroke.

I bought a Trooper (2.8L) with a broken crank. Don't know how it happened. Maybe because they used the wrong pilot bushing and forced the tranny on (luckily the tranny still works, that's what I bought the truck for).

[20-inch-bike]

3.5 with cast heads? possible?

It seems like a few people are good on this topic here. i am looking for the best over all ideal engine for the money.. if i was to buy a 3.5 for a local wrecking yard and bolt cast heads on "temp" till a intake is made for a carb for aluminum heads... now ill still have a pair of high flowing heads to bolt back on... so to big questions are cast heads on a 3.5 and is there still the same oil pump drive on the 3.5 as the early 2.8? this project is for my sand rail for those wondering why im going old school card and distributor

[Driver_10]

It seems like a few people are good on this topic here. i am looking for the best over all ideal engine for the money.. if i was to buy a 3.5 for a local wrecking yard and bolt cast heads on "temp" till a intake is made for a carb for aluminum heads... now ill still have a pair of high flowing heads to bolt back on... so to big questions are cast heads on a 3.5 and is there still the same oil pump drive on the 3.5 as the early 2.8? this project is for my sand rail for those wondering why im going old school card and distributor

If your using a 3500 block and rotating assembly, Id probably advise against the cast Iron heads. Simply put, the 2.8l /3.4l style cylinder heads are crappy paper wieghts and would serve you batter as door stops. (I hear they make good boat anchors)

As it stands right now, there is no way that I can think of that would allow you to carb and distributor a moderen 3500 60* (unless someone knows different).

A megasquirt ecu, 3400 fuel rail, 7x external timing wheel, 3.5l "short-star" 65mm TB + adapter plate would be about $1100 (assuming you buy the latest megasquirt 3.57 board and MS II main proccessor)

[20-inch-bike]

well it is known different i guess by many ive asked.... i have to use the cast heads... thats why i am using them and i dont want to but "untill" an intake is made its the only way