Project: L-body headers

[torq455]

like me! i have a 3400 waiting for lower intake gaskets. i could use silicon...

my Dad has those clamps on his modded 03 Z06. they are just fine. i know it's hard to believe, but they do work well.

[3400-95-Modified]

I dont think it would be worth it if he just re-sold you the bends cut to what you need, but i really wish there was somthing available for those on a tighter budget. Im not entirly sure what can be sorted out, but im open to pm's.

Doing it right just isn't cheap. And sometimes you just need to wait till you can afford it and go with what you got for now.

[bob442]

Will headers be built to fit a w?

if you look back a page or 2, you will see your answer.



its yes, but not right now, you have to sit tight.

[bungee91]

... Turbo manifolds have also been inquired about...

In line

[highmiler]

You would need to weld everything together anyways so why wouldn't you just make your own then?

Yah, I kinda plan on it, It would help justify the $2800 tig welder in the garage....lol but I still need to get flanges, then buy mandrel bends, and some 3-1 collectors........ just be kinda nice to get it all in one shot.... these look like very nice pieces, I do understand the reasons for hesitation on a kit though the margins are in the labor not the parts

[19Cutlass94]

Will headers be built to fit a w?

[ForcedFirebird]

We plan on making so less expensive "shorties", but one thing at a time. Don't want to get ahead of ourselves. Turbo manifolds have also been inquired about...

[Nick-G]

I have a thought......... hows about selling a set of headers as a unwelded kit, with the pipes as shown, collectors, and flanges for anyone who has a weird car........just a thought.... look nice though! did i miss it or is there any dyno numbers

You would need to weld everything together anyways so why wouldn't you just make your own then?

I don't believe their are any dyno numbers but IIRC you should gain roughly 15-20 at the least.

[Weston19]

I dont think it would be worth it if he just re-sold you the bends cut to what you need, but i really wish there was somthing available for those on a tighter budget. Im not entirly sure what can be sorted out, but im open to pm's.

[highmiler]

I have a thought......... hows about selling a set of headers as a unwelded kit, with the pipes as shown, collectors, and flanges for anyone who has a weird car........just a thought.... look nice though! did i miss it or is there any dyno numbers

[19Cutlass94]

Those band clamps are aswesome. I have them on my car, and have been working great for about 2yrs so far!

[IsaacHayes]

I just noticed the location of the 2nd O2 sensor bung. Will that clear the MBC? Wondering why it wasn't in the same spot the EGR would be. Hard to tell. I'll find out though, that's what this set is for!

[IsaacHayes]

Jon, my whole stainless 2.5" mandrel exhaust is connected with those. They hold like a mofo when torqued all the way and don't leak. They work for butt joint AND slip joint as they conform to fit.

DP (clamp) Cat (clamp) intermediate pipe (clamp) pipe over axle (clamp) muffler (clamp) pipe (clamp) tips

The clamp on the cat is grabbing less than .5" of the cat since it's a lot bigger than a slip fit onto 2.5" pipe for some odd reason (the muffler was dead on though). So it has even less surface area than a butt-joint and the clamp is stretched/deformed a lot more than other areas but it's holding on tight. That is the worst connection and supports the most weight as there are no exhaust mounts until after the axle where the stock hanger spot is used with a stainless rod welded to the pipe, and then a muffler strap mount from a 95 with a custom stainless strap, and then the 94 muffler mount clamped to the pipe coming out of the muffler with custom stainless L bracket and stainless u-bolt clamp.

These clamps are used on semi's and such.

The blue car's engine rocks more than the orange car I'm sure, as it right now has all stock mounts except for the prothane engine insert. The orange car will have 2 poly dogbones, the prothane insert, and the dual 5spd 92-93 mounts. The orange car doesn't have any flex pipe as is and the pipe doesn't hit anything which is pretty amazing.

The orange car I'll put a flex pipe instead of a cat there, and the drive train is back 1" to align the axles with the hubs, but also needs to move back .5" in rotation (see the thread Rodney posted) with the dogbones. So that means the DP will be back 1" which should be fine, and also raised up .5" or so. When you get on it, the DP will lower so that's fine. In reverse if you hammer it it could rub though, depending on mounts.

The system that is on blue will be on orange minus the cat, in it's place a flex pipe.

[ForcedFirebird]

I've never used those, and never had a problem with the slip couplers and u-joints (even all the big mfgr's use them in their systems). They actually crush a ring in the pipe and sometimes are difficult to remove even - with a cple small tack welds, they are even better.

You have to remember that your engine is going to rotate under load unlike the twisitng of a RWD.

[bszopi]

They are from Australia, so they must be good.

http://www.torcaclamps.com.au/

http://www.tieco.com.au/EasySeal.pdf