Hmm. Should be able to drop them in without taking off engine mount, unless they are that different from the S&S.
Alan is lucky to get full exhaust done at the same time! He just needs a 3x00 swap and then he'll be cooking!
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Heater lines just had to be removed for install, they went right back where they were.
Take your time and you can relocate the coil packs to the firewall by only extending one wire (ground wire to the ICM) we were able to make it look like they were there from the factory be opening up the loom and carefully pulling the wires through. The CPS wire was already at the back of the engine and just had to be un-clipped and brought straight up. There are already holes in the firewall close enough to use to mount them, just have to slot the holes a bit and chop the bottom mounting tab at the bottom of the ICM (bottom in the pics)...
The trans dipstick also had to be removed if you are installing these with the motor in the car, and I had to straighten the tube out a bit for it to fit. Probably could have made and extension for where it bolts to the head, but time was a time issue for this install.
Oil dipstick had to be removed, went right back in.
As Alan mentioned, cut a spoke off the fan and it's still close, but cleared.
The subframe has to be dropped, and take the motor/trans mount loose to allow you to rock everything a bit.
That's the basics, if you guys have any questions, shoot them here and will answer them to the best of my knowledge, but it was a fairly straight forward header install as header installs go.
You might have to make some field adjustments depending on the year and options, as with any custom part...Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 12-21-2009, 06:52 PM.Leave a comment:
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Here's what I remember John mentioning...
-He was able to cut one fan support off to get clearance, there's still a little dent melted into the housing from where the headers hit it
-The OPSU cleared because it was on the back of the block
-Everything up front except the older fan fit perfectly
-He mentioned having to move two lines at the rear of the engine, I'm pretty sure they are the heater core lines
-OH! The transmission dipstick needed to be tweaked a little, as well.Leave a comment:
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How did the fan end up? Anything else gave you clearance issues? What about heater core lines, was one close to the headers?Leave a comment:
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These worked perfectly on the drive home. That damn low coolant light went off and came back on, so it's probably right below full.
Other than that nothing out of place.Leave a comment:
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well if they were like me those things were a pain in the ass to install... that ball joint style would really easy up the installation...( if its easy to install)Originally posted by IsaacHayes View Post
by the way will there be others potions?(like ceramic coating)Last edited by mickaz; 12-21-2009, 12:36 PM.Leave a comment:
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Why do you guys have issues with doughnut gaskets? Do they fall out or something when you are installing them?
Do those springed ball-joints seal up really tight?
Can't wait to get my car buttoned up and running with these headers. Right now it's 90% done before I even drop the engine in...Leave a comment:
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ive got the 3 bolt that came on the TOG headers. there's 2 pretty much like the stock crossover. something like this would be a hell of a lot easier than screwing around with the crappy doughnut gaskets and the 3 bolt setup.
i just got to see what the OD of the pipe is. honestly dont remember.Leave a comment:
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wow, that's cheap. might have to order some up this weekend...
I'm using 2 bolt flanges cut from Gen2 3.1 crossovers right now.
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