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Project: L-body headers
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I'm Taking Very Detailed Information On it...Also anyone Who Can Help With Diameter and Sizes On A 3100 sfi Lumina...would gladly be appreciated...i will start soon on this proyect as soon as posible...when i get enought information on the best set up for my engine...
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Just noticed this thread from the store and looks like lots have progress has been made! I'm very excited now to see if a set of headers can be made that will just fit in my car!
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I cut the metal of the stock gaskets. I am sure you could use the 3400 gaskets and cut the heat shield part off like I do for the 3.4/3500's.
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STB clears, as Alan pointed out
just make sure your plug wires are good, cause if you pull one, they will arc (to the bar
or your hand)...
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If we weren't so far apart I'd offer my car as a guinea pig to see if they fit the older n-bodies too.
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Will a STB clear those coils in that location?
On the 90 and older L bodies you cannot mount the coils there. The relay center is in that spot.
Dyno time!
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looks good. and I like the idea of mounting the coil pack on the firewall.
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Front went in with the engine in it's normal position once the intake tube and radiator hose was pulled (and of course the coil packs), it was all the rear that will give you the fight.
In fact, it was so tight back there, I had to modify the rear header and make the adjustments on the jig...
THEN when the rear was all in and was bolting everything back up, the sway bar hit the extension I put on the collector (2.5" ID to hook to exhaust) and had to cut that off with a die grinder/cut off wheel inside the pipe! But one I got back to the just the collector, welded a 90* on.
So the production headers will more than likely have a bend on the end of the collector that's too long, so you can cut off what you need and put a slip-coupler on to continue to the back of the car (or have an exhaust shop weld etc).
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Oh, and as far as the ball joints leaking, I actually forgot to put the springs on Alan's set and they didn't leak one bit. The trick is to make the headers so when they bolt together, they put pressure on the joint. In fact, I almost made them TOO tight and had a little trouble getting the front header in once the rear was bolted up, so you may want to loosely bolt the rear in, then get the front lined up, then tq them both down after the ball joint has made contact.
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Trust me,you will want to make your life as easy as possible while trying to stuff 50lbs of crap in a 10lb bag
My hands are beat up pretty bad from working in the tight space...every 1/2" make s a big difference
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