high compression setup

[rooster5333]

try looking at a truck stop for a small ceramic heater that plugs into cig ltr plug. If you have an old enuf car that has cig ltr that is. they are small and sit on the dash to help keep your w/s defogged. trucks are not well designed most of the time. and they cant put glowing element stlye units inside the cabs. once u can see, just unplug and remove so it dont fly around during your heavy throttle romp to work.

[IsaacHayes]

I miss the mileage I got on straight gas. It was almost like an extra week of driving it seemed. Speaking of bad mileage, last fill up was 15mpg with the cold ass sub 0 temps and trying to warm up the car enough to see out the damn windshield. I swear I need to put cardboard over the radiator, that or when winter comes put in a thermostat higher than 195F... My co-works 4 runner will burn your face off in like 5 mins of starting the car... Mine you can sit and rev it for 10 mins and barely get luke warm. And it's not a clogged heater core or anything like that. The car just always runs cool no matter what.

[robertisaar]

They passed so many stupid laws here. First they passed to where they don't have to label it or not.

indiana, ohio and michigan are the same.

[IsaacHayes]

They passed so many stupid laws here. First they passed to where they don't have to label it or not. Then they made it so everything HAS to have it. Costs tax payers money is all it does.

[geldartb]

all of the places around here have a sticker on the pump that says the fuel contains 10% ethanol.

[pocket-rocket]

All of the 7-11's around here do E10. There are a few others around here that do too, but there are still a small hand full that don't (unless they just don't mark it as 10% Ethanol).

[SappySE107]

Yes that contact page. It sends me emails, which I can keep track of easier than pms and forums.

[geldartb]

If anyone needs cam specs, please use the contact form on wot-tech. I have the regrind sheets still.

do you mean this http://wot-tech.com/shop/contact-us/info_2.html or is there another form im missing.

they put ethanol in every grade around here and i believe its the same throughout the northeast.

[SappySE107]

If anyone needs cam specs, please use the contact form on wot-tech. I have the regrind sheets still.

[IsaacHayes]

Jon, knowing the intake valve closing event is the main # I would need. IVC ABDC. That would help compare with what I have to get an idea. You have slightly more duration but less lift than my cam. (talking about intake side)

I did hear that ONE gas station in my city is putting ethanol in their 91 premium, which tests out at 94 octane on a octane engine. They typically don't put E10 in anything but the 87 grade (which comes out to 89 and is exactly the same as if you selected 89 grade which is why they sell both for the same price). It's required to put 10% ethanol here in the gas unless it will raise the price.

So that would be nice, but since that is a rare exception and may not continue, I hope I can run on 91.

You guys are working in an area that many shy away from due to the limitations of old technology in head design and the outdated books reinforcing those rules still in print being spread around.

Lindy Tools makes a far better valve relief cutter than the tool available from one of the cam companies which I understand takes quite a while to do its job. The tool is designed for use through the valve guide with the piston installed for accuracy of location. That should take care of any potential valve interference issues resulting from headgasket and cam lift changes.

An important trend for everyone to take into considereation is that by default the introduction of ethanol into fuel automatically provides some increased antidetonation properties as well as a drop in fuel energy so in a way our engines need the higher compression to recover what was lost from the pure gasoline blend.

Remember all of the current GM 60 deg engines being manufactured are at least 9.8:1 compression on 87 octane, the 3.6L 10.2:1. I see no reason why you can't run a full 12:1 with modern aluminum heads and pump gas possibly with less than 93 octane.

If you keep coolant temps close to 200 deg or less I don't believe you'll have any problem at all.

The increase in efficiency with the higher compression provided you don't go overboard with cam duration may provide equal to or better fuel economy on higher grade fuel than the stock motor currently gets on low grade. I'm talking about the dollar per mile average here.

I like what you're doing as you can tell by the length of this post.

[3400-95-Modified]

I missed the whole piston deck clearance setting so that's why I had different numbers when I was doing the CR calculator.

Stock thickness 3500 MLS headgaskets I would be 11.6:1

To get good quench I would end up at 12.5:1

my cam specs are in my sig you dope, At least what I know of it... the rest you would have to ask Ben to see if he has any info on the old 1280 intake and 1331 exhaust lobe's
Cam 216/240 .050 dur .517/.568 lift 112LSA

Its starting to sound like I really can't get a usable CR with stock parts so if I want to mess with this I really need to pick a CR and get a set of Diamond pistons made... Thats gonna be a year or so off then... I guess I'll stick with the .060 thick gasket with my stock bottom end and just make sure to port the shit out of the top end this year. I still feel like my setup was off on the 270hp that I was quoted... so I gotta reach that before doing more to it.


HEY I actually started working on the car yesterday too!!! Drained the oil, the antifreeze disconnected and removed the battery, the alternator the front header, the fan, the coils... and all that fun stuff... Now I'm gonna drop the frame rails, and get the trans out then pull the engine... That way I can reach the bolts to remove the rear header

[IsaacHayes]

Jon, with Iron head pistons the quench suffers with .060 headgaskets, you need to drop the heads to have ideal quench. Raising them more will only make it worse. Quench can help fight pre-detonation. I would not run .080...

My cam could be bigger to run 11.51:1 but it does run on 93. I will find out if it will run on 91......... I will try colder spark plugs if I have issues and hope for the best...

I don't know your cam specs to well, but for 12:1 I'd want a big cam...

CCC: Play with the compression calc, and look up dynamic compression calcs. The later is only a guess at what it will come out with, but you can compare others setups. I forget what the iron head 3.1 pistons work out to be in a 3100. But it's different than using gen3 heads and 3.4 iron heads in a 3400...

[pocket-rocket]

Well, if you are worried about vacuum for accessories you could always get one of those vacuum pumps for diesel vehicles that run their brake booster Although if you want some good power, you should upgrade to at least a 3400 to start with. Even with our small V6's the old saying still holds true- "There is no replacement for displacement"... Well, until you go to boost

[Classick Century Custom]

Barring the same question here since I am attempting the same setup, what cam would you guys think is the best for my 3100 motor with a high compression motor. I went on WOT reminding that its gonna be streetable I'm looking for the most rumble before vacume becomes an issue.

Forgive me for the questions I am just not as savy when it comes to these motors as most of you are which I was I joined to learn.