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Unique Fiero 2.8 iron exh...

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  • SappySE107
    replied
    I gotta see that in the engine bay. Wow

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  • robertisaar
    replied
    good god, those fit on a W-body?!

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  • bob442
    replied
    didnt wanna drag the welder out just yet, kind of a pain in the ass, so tape did for today, just about done, need the block together to finalise all the welds, and that might be a while still.



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  • bob442
    replied
    Well, I had hoped to get them done today till we got rain in -6 weather, kinda bumbed me out. What ever the conclusion they are going to look really cool under the hood of a fwd car.


    Update: I got all the pipes figured out for the most part, but its hard to finalize the welds with out head gaskets, and the block still in the car. it looks pretty damn neet and everything fits, unfortunetly i cant take pictures till i pull the motor and tack everything up with the motor on a engine stand, i basically had each primary sitting together under its own weight and magnets for about 20 seconds, then it all fell apart. theres no room to weld, but it all fits together with a good 4-5" of clearance of the fire wall, and 1 1/2-2 1/2" on the master, and plenty of room through the tunnel and rack. I figure i'll have a picture of the finished product in 2 months when everything else gets wrapped up. Its certian that the master cylinder and TB will have to be removed, or unbolted and pushed to the side for the rear header install and removal. not a big deal to me.
    My only worry is the 3 pipe merge collector. that will need some practice
    Last edited by bob442; 02-15-2011, 08:36 PM.

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  • 82-T/A
    replied
    I'm eagerly watching to see what the conclusion is. This is definitely something that I plan to do to get that sound out of my Fiero...

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  • bob442
    replied
    So I cleaned up the front header primary routing so ot all comes together parallel over tue trans, then I got the 6-1 piping done, and half of 2-5, as far as there being too much bends in each rear primary, I'm only worried about #6 with 340* of bend total, but It ended up being all equal length so far, which is strangly awesome, I'm measuring by the outside of the mandarals, all coming together at 31-33"
    I'm going to have to re plumb the heater core line from the lower intake for space, and make atleast 2 heat shields for the master and rack. I'll post pics later tonight when I get back to the computer.





    i'll be the first to admit the merge isnt the greatest, but i'm confident it will work out great. gotta get the die grinder in there to clean up the opening a lil bit.
    Last edited by bob442; 02-12-2011, 09:33 PM.

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  • bob442
    replied
    time will tell, in the end i'll atleast have a some crazy looking headers and hopfully a nice sound

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  • robertisaar
    replied
    i think RWD guys are going to benefit more than FWD will, just due to the unequal lengths we would be working with when comparing the front and rear cylinders.

    however, the dyno/track will determine how useful they are for FWD.

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  • ericjon262
    replied
    I think all the twists and turns you'll have to make to get these made will kill any power improvement you may get.

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  • 82-T/A
    replied
    Originally posted by robertisaar View Post
    so THAT'S what 180* headers mean?

    seems to work well with 8 cylinders, but on the fiero(after watching for like the 5th and 6th times), the transition from idle to heavy throttle has the "gasping" that ricers create before they start buzzing. otherwise, it does sound good.

    Do you mean the "pop" sound? I would figure that has more to do with the type of muffler they are using. But the port pairing definitely sounds really cool...

    I'm seriously considering what it would take for me to have this kind of sound too...

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Marc is correct, there are no opposing cyls on the 60v6. Bob, pair the TDC cyls for the flat plane effect.

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  • bob442
    replied
    Thanks Marc,
    I just needed that little bit of clarifacation. If i would have started building my headers earlier yeasterday i would have gotten to the rear, and i had the first drawing printed out and laying infront of me, it was 6-1 5-4 2-3. It was way to cold out today, i was out for 30 minutes dressed up and started to get a chill, yesterday i was out for 7 hours in a sweater. Oh well.

    On a side note, i got my DRTC the other day, and Man does it look nice! I was thinking about doing a plexi glass insert with LED's on the timing cover to show it off lol

    Bob

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  • CNCguy
    replied
    Bob,
    1-4, 2-5 & 3-6 are correct. When looking at the crank you need to keep in mind that there is 60 degrees difference between the front and rear cylinders.

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  • bob442
    replied
    i almost started building these wrong today, 1-4 3-6 2-5, accept when i look at the crank the first journal and the last journal are 180* apart....if i built it off the crank it would be 1-6 2-3 4-5. i gotta make sure this is right before i get an further, and that probably wont be till next weekend

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by Superdave View Post
    The ones we used on Redbird's headers leaked like hell, i have them on mine as well but haven't tested them yet...
    To make sure they are tight, I loosen the flanges a bit when cutting the pipe between them, so that when welded up, they draw in tight, the springs are to keep them from seperating during heat cycles - not to pull them.

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