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Finally got the dry sump pump the day before yesterday.
Of course it hit both the rack and engine bracket.
I did not leave enough space for it.
I had to do the engine bracket all over again.
But now it is somewhere close to the final position.
yeah it looks like you'll be all set on that seal. I didn't realize there was that much flat area around the plug hole. And going by your head CC'ing I can see how much the plug was exposed so that explains the amount of shims your using as well.
May be stupid question, but don't you need conical shims to seal to the cylinder head? Its not a flat gasket type plug.
And why do you want to bring the plug in that far?
I think the original spark plug is a good example of a lean mixture engine
spark plug.And this engine is far away from lean mixture.
Stock spark plug in the left.
I took away the "bulge" in the combustion chamber around the spark plug.
And we think the tip of a spark plug have to be as far from the piston as possible,
to give maximum power.
The stock spark plug is conical, but the we think we can use those flat types .
The conical area is pretty small and around it is flat area in the head.
NGK spark plugs are number 8, so pretty cool.
7 or 8 is the right heat range for my application.
That's insane. I can't believe now far you are taking a 60 degree with all of this modification and fabrication. I like it a lot. I bet I speak for many here when I say I wish I could see it in person and hear it run!
All RWD engines work the same way. Coolant enters the front of the block and exits the front of the heads. Some engines channel the water from the heads down through the block and out holes just above where the water entered. But most go through the intake. Most modern engines use reverse flow where water enters the heads first. GM started this back with the 55 Pontiac engines. Most believe the LT1 was the first.
In order to promote flow right to the back of the block there is larger holes right at the back of the head gasket. This is why is it so important to read the gasket markings when installing them. Orientation is critical. I never looked back on this thread but if this engine is using RWD head gaskets there wont be any issue with coolant flow.
Even FWD headgaskets have the proper holes in them to direct the flow through the block and out the back, or at least the MLS ones do, which is what he is using.
Pic I found of the L or drivers side headgasket top.
And the GM gaskets have a larger hole toward the back and the front one is just blocked because the water jacket isn't there on the front of the block
All RWD engines work the same way. Coolant enters the front of the block and exits the front of the heads. Some engines channel the water from the heads down through the block and out holes just above where the water entered. But most go through the intake. Most modern engines use reverse flow where water enters the heads first. GM started this back with the 55 Pontiac engines. Most believe the LT1 was the first.
In order to promote flow right to the back of the block there is larger holes right at the back of the head gasket. This is why is it so important to read the gasket markings when installing them. Orientation is critical. I never looked back on this thread but if this engine is using RWD head gaskets there wont be any issue with coolant flow.
Correct, but the head gaskets have holes of certain sizes to promote the coolant to flow to at least the middle of the block before it enters the head.
Looking at ours we do at least have a larger hole on the rear portion of the head gasket so that should hopefully promote flow to back there more.
Well on a stock gasket it does, its hard to see the hole sizes on the cometic gaskets because the image is so small on the WOT page.
edit*
Looks like there is one small hole in the front and one large one on the rear and then just various small holes in the middle for the center jackets, so it should be fine.
Seems a bit odd to me to have coolant enter the block on the front and exit the heads on the front... That doesn't promote much fluid flow in the block now does it? I would have thought you would want it to exit the other side... similar to how a stock 3100 fwd setup is, fluid enters the passenger side and exits the two heads via the intake on the back of the engine/drivers side.
He may possibly be using these AN fittings on both ends of the heads using the front as a cross over and the rear as the coolant exit? <scratch that, doesn't appear that way with the pics above.
I was thinking the same thing, but it worked for how many years that way with the old SBC?
Seems a bit odd to me to have coolant enter the block on the front and exit the heads on the front... That doesn't promote much fluid flow in the block now does it? I would have thought you would want it to exit the other side... similar to how a stock 3100 fwd setup is, fluid enters the passenger side and exits the two heads via the intake on the back of the engine/drivers side.
He may possibly be using these AN fittings on both ends of the heads using the front as a cross over and the rear as the coolant exit? <scratch that, doesn't appear that way with the pics above.
In this picture, did you connect the radiator hose section with the water pump inlet? If so, wouldn't the coolant just bypass the block and go into the radiator? Where are you exiting the coolant from the block?
Coolant will exit out of the front of the cylinder heads, note the AN fitings in this pic.
The water pump "inlet" has been welded shut on the timing cover.
In this picture, did you connect the radiator hose section with the water pump inlet? If so, wouldn't the coolant just bypass the block and go into the radiator? Where are you exiting the coolant from the block?
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