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roller lifters with 2.8

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  • unchained01
    replied
    Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
    Yes, your peak power increased very little, but the power is earlier and holds longer than the Ford engine. Building a race motor isn't just about peak power, but average power all around.
    Yeah i agree also
    And the by the videos the type or racing your doing (road course cvompared to circle track)
    I think you may be suprised once you get it tuned correctly The mid-range power band looks really reallly good compared to the other motor

    Leave a comment:


  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Yes, your peak power increased very little, but the power is earlier and holds longer than the Ford engine. Building a race motor isn't just about peak power, but average power all around.

    Leave a comment:


  • geoffinbc
    replied
    Don't get discouraged. If this is your first build with this brand of engine and your first dyno session then your not looking too bad. You put a lot of custom parts on that motor and it is far from the normal 60 degree V6 build. Your just going to have to spend some time tuning it.

    Leave a comment:


  • veekuusi
    replied
    Each carb is supplying 2 cylinders.No common area .
    It is 3 x 50 mm carburetor.

    The last /lowest picture shows air fuel ratio.
    Lambda is the blue line.
    3500 rpm is 1.00 and 7000 rpm is 0.88

    Max advance is 32 degrees.

    If you are wondering , why I am using that kind of carburetor system,
    I try to explain.
    The regulations says that now with my application I can use 2800 cc engine
    (less throttles than cylinders), but when I put fuel injection or 6 throttle bodies,
    the engine size can be max 2000 cc with the same 1000 kg car weight.
    And there is no limit for the size of carburetors.

    I am pretty sure there is right timing with the camshaft.
    But I douple check the timing.
    If the camshaft is advanced much , the result may be as it is now.
    The max torque and power comes too early.
    Last edited by veekuusi; 10-28-2012, 02:38 AM.

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  • SappySE107
    replied
    That is strange. 181, we do that with basic mods on the stock 3400. Do you have air/fuel ratios? How much timing are you giving it? How much clearance did you give the pistons?

    I am not sure on your intake setup, so that could be killing power. Is each carb supplying 2 cylinders, or are all 3 feeding 6 cylinders in a common area between the runners? Given the cam specs and what the engine is supposed to be doing, I am wondering if its the carbs can supply enough air.

    Leave a comment:


  • veekuusi
    replied
    It is time to put this case together.
    Some good news and some bad news.

    I went to dyno yesterday.
    The weather was against me allready in the morning.
    We got the first snow storm.
    So roads were very slippery.







    The engine leaks no oil , water or fuel.
    Sounds good and responds to the throttle very well.
    We spent half a day adjusting the carburetor, changed fuel and air injectors to get the lambda readings okay.
    That is the good part of this story.

    But I can no way be satisfied with the engine power.
    I did expect pretty much more.
    1 year, very much money spent , and only something like 5 hp more than from
    my old Ford engine.
    And 35 more torque , but that is not much.

    The blue is Chevy engine and the green is old Ford engine.



    Max power 136 kW (6630 rpm) and 236 Nm (4170) from back wheels .
    That is something like 184 hp .





    The engine power starts to drop after 6600 rpm.
    Main reason is perhaps the custon intake manifold.
    It does not work.

    But now I have to take few beers and think about this case.
    .
    Last edited by veekuusi; 10-27-2012, 02:10 AM.

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  • ericjon262
    replied
    thanks!

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  • veekuusi
    replied
    Originally posted by ericjon262 View Post
    I see the rockers are crane RR, but do you have a Part number or model number for them? I'm considering trying to get a set for my 3500, and have my heads machined for studs.
    # CRN 25759-12
    Crane Gold Rocker Arms
    1.6 3/8

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  • ericjon262
    replied
    I see the rockers are crane RR, but do you have a Part number or model number for them? I'm considering trying to get a set for my 3500, and have my heads machined for studs.

    Leave a comment:


  • Superdave
    replied
    ^Agreed, the newer gear reduction starters are going to do a better job. Plus they sound cool.

    Leave a comment:


  • geoffinbc
    replied
    Try a gear reduction starter if your not already using one. Cant remember what year they started but they are only going to work on drivers side mounts

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  • 3400-95-Modified
    replied
    Originally posted by veekuusi View Post
    If any one of you know where to buy a more powerful starter to
    this engine, please let me know.
    The one that I have (stock 3.1 Lumina) seems a little bit weak.
    It is from 1996 , but I do not know if a new one would be
    any better (probably made in China).

    Made the valve lash adjustment this afternoon.
    intake is now 0.30 mm and exhaust is 0.35 mm (cold).
    They were too much in some valves , that is why the ticking sound..
    And took some new video for fun.


    Dyno session time is booked next weeks friday .
    So we have to wait a week , to get the final result of this project.
    Try finding a 2000+ 3400 starter, if its in the FWD position you should be able to use it. I think its a gear reduction one to start, and its also much smaller.

    Image of size difference



    I haven't had any issues with mine. How big of a wire do you have running from the battery to the starter though? You could be experiencing a large voltage drop giving you the slow cranking. Unless this is only new with that starter.

    Leave a comment:


  • veekuusi
    replied
    If any one of you know where to buy a more powerful starter to
    this engine, please let me know.
    The one that I have (stock 3.1 Lumina) seems a little bit weak.
    It is from 1996 , but I do not know if a new one would be
    any better (probably made in China).

    Made the valve lash adjustment this afternoon.
    intake is now 0.30 mm and exhaust is 0.35 mm (cold).
    They were too much in some valves , that is why the ticking sound..
    And took some new video for fun.


    Dyno session time is booked next weeks friday .
    So we have to wait a week , to get the final result of this project.

    Leave a comment:


  • unchained01
    replied
    check out his other vids !!!

    Leave a comment:


  • 3400-95-Modified
    replied
    Sounds pretty sweet! It all pays off when the key turns and it fires up.

    Leave a comment:

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