262's 85 Fiero SE LX9 F23 swap thread lots of pics

[ericjon262]

Guess a metal line is out of the question. Sure seems like there has been a rash of turbos blowing lines in the last year or so on a few sites. Oh well, guess you have cheap POS to cover it.

for now, yes, but eventually, it will be stainless steel lines with swagelok fittings custom bent to what I need. it's not too hard to do, just takes time and cash. for now, I went to my local rubber and gasket supplier and picked up some aeroquip hose/hose ends to replace the line.

this is the second line failure I've had using silicone intakes hoses. I used this hose:

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/braided-stainless-steel-lines/stainless-steel-brake-lines-p-1240.html

I don't remember reading on their site that you had to use their fittings with their lines when I made the original line, but the fitting I used on that line appears to be a standard hose end, so this failure may have been my fault. the line was in pretty rough shape when removed though, there was a black coating over the stainless braid, that when the lines were new, was very tough and durable, now, after only a handful of heat cycles, can be flaked off easily without even a fingernail... I wouldn't recommend the product at all compared to regular braided SS. it didn't hold up at all like I would have liked, failure or not. the other line I had fail was a fuel line, from the center of the line, no evidence of crush damage or abrasion, it just blew.

I'm working on designing a better hotside for the car, mainly for packaging reasons, but if I can improve it while I'm in there, I intend to.

some pics of the new design so far...

Version 1.0, ruined by bad measurements...



Version 2.0, close to equal length.

post pic of line and fitting.

when I get around to it I will, it's not very high on the priority list.

post pic of line and fitting.

[Purple pit]

Guess a metal line is out of the question. Sure seems like there has been a rash of turbos blowing lines in the last year or so on a few sites. Oh well, guess you have cheap POS to cover it.

[ericjon262]

at this point, I can't tell if it failed due to poor assembly, or if the hose end just didn't grip the hose. either way, the turbo is toast. I'm going to order another cheap ebay POS for now, and when I redo my hotside, I'll swap to something more fun.

[Purple pit]

Weak connector?

[ericjon262]

bad news... oil feed to the turbo blew, low oil flow to the turbo, it's trashed. I'm hoping the bottom end is still good, but it's tough to say ATM...

[ericjon262]

thanks, it feels pretty intense. I can't wait to get it tuned up right.

[34blazer]

Damn that sounds nasty!

[ericjon262]

a short video for the haters and non-believers. beware, it's real low quality...

https://youtu.be/poXUW6gbIe0

[ericjon262]

good news, alternator bracket works, no odd noises or anything, belt wasn't destroyed in seconds, nothing exciting happened, it just worked! the car didn't overheat for the short time I ran it in the driveway, which is another plus!

[ericjon262]

the idea, is probably a stillborn for a couple of reasons,

1. the lifter and pushrod do not travel in the same plane, therefore, the use of a guideplate will cause the tip of the rocker to experience thrust loading as the valve cycles.
2. the simple flat design shown here, would require the LIM gaskets at a minimum to be modified, if not the LIM as well.



with something like this, number 2 is solved, and number 1 is minimized. but then the fundamental engineering problem, will it fit?

got the rest of the valvetrain back in and torqued down. re-installed the bits of cooling system that had to be removed to pull the rockers, and re-pressurized the cooling system. this time it performed much better. still not as good as I would prefer though. over the coarse of about 30 minutes, I lost about .75 psi, compared to the 1 psi per minute I was experiencing earlier at the same pressures before all this work. some of the pressure loss could be the compressed air cooling as well, so tomorrow, I'm going to fill the system and pressure test again.

I also finalized the alternator mount. I still need to extend/re-route the wiring to the alternator, and get a slightly shorter belt, hopefully I can find one 1/2" or so shorter, that will probably be perfect. I'm not as worried about belt slippage as I was before, I did some quick math using very conservative numbers, and determined that the crank has more than double the belt contact area as the alternator, which would be the major load on the belt. the only other load is the water pump, is has about the same belt contact as stock, but on the smooth side, so way less contact area than the alternator and crank. it should be fine. in doing the low mount alternator, I also now need to remount the coils, as they won't fit with the front valve cover on the back, so tomorrow, I'm going to mount them to the firewall of the trunk.

I think by the time you stack everything up like you prose you'll find that everything will be too high to have proper geometry.

I like your idea, I just don't think it will work out like you want.

The adjustable studs need to be a certain height so that the adjustment can be made and the bottom of the rocker have clearance to the hex of the stud, etc.

If you have the studs already, stack some washers under the stud equal to the thickness of the part you have designed and see where it all lies.

[ericjon262]

I'd rather not pull the heads if it can be avoided.

If you mill down the pedistals, just like is done with the 3400 heads, then they work.

[ericjon262]

Why not do like everyone else does I that situation and use gen 2 guide plates?

I was under the impression that the gen 2 guideplates didn't fit the 3500 heads.