3.1 h.p gain

[Doubt_Incarnate]

If your looking for basic performance gains without the headache ... headers...

haha, you could just buy headers from JBP (i think) for 1300 bucks, other than that if you lack welding skills you can scratch that off the list.

[john_V63400]

Well If your on a budget stay away from the headers and just buy a Chip or something.

[Syn]

If your looking for basic performance gains without the headache ... headers...

haha, you could just buy headers from JBP (i think) for 1300 bucks, other than that if you lack welding skills you can scratch that off the list.

to me 1300 is reatarted for the gain, you could prolly
do a rmt for that price if sourced right

[Doubt_Incarnate]

sooo true

[john_V63400]

So headers are out of the question.

Equip your 3.1 with Cold air intake, and a nice cat back, buy a bigger throttlebody and youll be more than happy.

But start with Intake and exuast that always is a nice start.

Horse Power cost money, how much can you afford

[IsaacHayes]

Heh, I'd save up and do something big, either a 3400 swap, or 3400 top end. But to start you out, get some exhaust done. But I'd go with manifold back, as you won't have to re-do it later. Mandrel bent, hi-flow cat, straight through perferated cherry bomb for a resonator, then a nice straight through dynomax ultraflo muffler. Go with 2.25" or 2.5" and you'll have nice sound and power. A CAI in the fender would be nice too and make your exhaust/engine louder.

If the 3.1 stock resonator is anything like my 3100 had, it actually robs a lot more horse power than you think. It interupts flow really bad and cause lots of turbulance. After I got rid of the resonator, (remember I have stock 2" crush bent pipes and original cat with 180k and I've been runing rich for years, along with my stock 1.75" or whatever restricter in the downpipe) I noticed a big increase in power under load, in 2nd gear (goes to 85mph) and less downshifting in 4th OD. I took out the resonator after I did the muffler and noticed more power than the muffler gave me, but then again I don't know if the difference would be the same removing the resonator with the stock muffler still. What I'm saying is the stock resonator sucks & didn't quiten my exhaust any, just made it more raspy/tinny. And if I noticed a power increase with just removing that (maybe not peak, but other areas are up in power), then full exhaust should make a noticeable difference.

Sheeeessh I typed a lot.

[john_V63400]

Do what Issac said,

1. CIA (cold air intake)
2. Aftermarket exaust (remove the resonator & add a Glass pack, add a high flow catylytic converter w/ a nice flowmaster or somtin)
3. Get a tune up and replace the spark plugs W/ new wire & plugs
4. Change your oil with royal purple synthetic oil and add a oil stabilizer

I use royal purple on my 3400 and it can add up to 9 horses just with a oil change.

Trust me this is a perfect starting point if your not yet mechanically inclined like me.

[montess408]

i got my exhaust done no cat st8 pipe 2.5 with s.s muffler new spark plugs taylor 8.0 wires new air filter and thats it for now

[SappySE107]

Royal purple isn't going to give 9 hp on a 160-180 hp motor. They use the 1000 hp engine to show the gains from their oil. I have heard only good things about the oil though but never used it.

[kflo 93 gt]

I'd like to see some sort of hp gain comparison between Royal Purple and Mobil 1. I use Mobil 1 religously, but have considered the purple. Given the price difference I'll stick with Mobil. 5 quart jug of it is still only $20 at wally world(only reason I spend any money there), where as Napa is the only place in my town with the purple, and they want $9 a quart.

edit: about forgot my point in posting originally...

Since you've got exhaust already, that's a plus. Add an intake, something with pipe and a cone filter, not just a cone filter on the stock hose. Then get a chip, it's easy to get(you're in the right place), it's easy to install, and it makes good power also. After that think about a pulley, and then maybe some poly mounts. Unless you want to spend money to help the 3.1 where it really hurts the most. Intake manifolds, heads, and exhaust manifolds. I wouldn't put money towards stuff that couldn't be used on a 3x00 swap.

[john_V63400]

Actually I think Royal Purple uses a stock LS1 camaro for the demonstration. but I cant remember. But all I know is that the oil works awsome.

Royal Purple Synthetic oil with Redline radiator additive and your car will feel real nice.

[IsaacHayes]

What if your car already feels real nice? LOL.

I know this is probably in my head, but after my O2 sensor change even WOT seems to pull ~5hp better. I think though the O2 is ignored at WOT... I'm even running a cone in the hot engine bay and haven't gone back to my modded air box w/drop in because the power is so nice. Doesn't matter as I'll be going to a FWI soon with a larger but better fitting K&N cone.

All this talk of oil, I need to change mine, but I think I'll hold off for when I swap my intakes... I do need to check the level. I never have to add any until 4k, then it's like 1/3 quart low.

[torq455]

Yeah, the 3300 injectors are a step over the 3.1 from what I remeber. Whatever the number are its not enough to flood it out by any means. All I know is that when I run with those injectors on that engine the motor feels stronger. The 3100 rocker arms will clear gen 2 covers. The 3100 roller rockers will clear gen2 covers as well.

interesting....I have the comp 1.6 roller tips on my stock 3.1 and use the stock injectors. Ben burned me a chip that runs the a/f leaner than stock and added more timing, and I gained nicely from both. that tells me leaner, not richer is better. so why would you need more gas at WOT? the factoy already runs them on the rich side already. maybe you had a bad injector?

[SappySE107]

3.3 injectors are smaller actually. 16.1# vs 16.6#. I could be wrong but that is what I looked up when I had the lucas type injectors that I bought from ADS years ago. Looked up the part number and they were for a 3.3 and thats what they were listed as. My car ran leaner (this was at the first 60V6 meet that I learned that as I just got my aldl cable and burner and we were messin with it).

I don't know if that helps or not though for performance since the computer will be adding fuel based on stock code since the injectors are smaller, but perhaps since they are smaller, they give a little less fuel at WOT when the computer doesn't compensate any more other than the BLM/INT it was at before it went to WOT, and the higher fuel pressure from WOT won't be as much fuel either.

This can also explain why a new O2 can make the car pull better even though it doesn't adjust at WOT. It uses the fueling adjustments from before WOT to determine the fueling needs at WOT. If its cutting fuel all the time, it puts all that fuel back in at WOT. So if BLM is 115, it jumps to 128 again when you floor it. If its 136, it keeps that 136. Thats why when I tune my car I leave it adding just a little fuel, low 130s. Its more consistant that way.

[IsaacHayes]

Ahh cool Ben thanks for the insight. My car does pull better at WOT now after the new O2 install. I guess I'm not imagning it after all. It's a pretty big difference actually so I know I wasn't imagning it. It doesn't ever "bog" and then pick up (wasn't bad, but I could tell) when going WOT, it's just instant smooth pull even-power through the whole rpm range that keeps gaining.