Headers

[VerbotenZ34]

I'd be all for a header design that was tested and OK'd by a fellow 60V6 owner. Any power gains are power gains, right? Although I will agree that one must recieve what one pays for.

Sooooo,.....anyone getting into header business, FFP or otherwise?

Verboten

[dykz34]

Don't keep your fingers crossed.

[Anonymous]

Mine will fit on my car, are equal lengh, and are a very good design. There is no doubt about that. If I make some for sale, they will be for 5-speeds only(until i get an auto to make a set for.) I will post pictures and give prices and dimensions and a dyno chart after mine are done. So far, this is what has come off on my car in order to get the old manifolds off and the headers on:

Fans
Plenum(not essential to remove)
Both manifolds, crossover, and cut the downpipe off right before the cat
Airbox or intake
upper radiator line
dogbone mount
Alternator cooling pipe

And some other small stuff. I do not know yet how headers will be put into the rear of the car, but lifting the engine is probable. As for the front 3, they will be drop in bolt on. the 2.25" downpipe from the front 3 will be fit into place from the top without difficulty.

[RacerX11]

I can't remember if this has been covered yet (I didn't feel like re-reading all 6 pages), but does the DOHC use bolts or studs for the exhaust manifolds? With my Gen1 setup, I used bolts, and it was easy to maneuver the headers into place and then start the bolts. With the gen3 heads and studs, it is alot harder to get them mounted up. Especially on the front, where my headers must be snaked down over the dipstick tube, and then back onto the studs at the same time. A little 'finessing' of the tube is require. The studs are the better way to go as far as gasket sealing and fastener retention with headers. Just something to keep in mind.

Marty

[SappySE107]

They use studs stock, but bolts could work.

[Guest]

Is that a weld job or sterling silver jewelry?
No offense but that is some bad welding...i have a question about em'..if u were to use NOS injection would'nt u blow those bad welds

[dykz34]

This thread has been re-opened, see this post: http://60degreev6.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6085#6085

Let's keep the bickering to a minimum because this thread had a ton of info in it.

[dykz34]

Ok, I'm a dumbass! I edited the thread and everything, but then forgot to UNLOCK it! LMAO!

Anyways, here are some pics of Aaron's headers that he emailed to me:

https://www.dykz34.com/images/headers

[GPXSS]

OH MY EYES!!! PLEASE GET OUT THE GRINDER!!!

[Anonymous]

OH MY EYES!!! PLEASE GET OUT THE GRINDER!!!

Wow that post did the dream of getting headers for the 3.4 a lot of good.

Anyways, those are right after I got them together, and I hadn't ground them down yet. Now they are. I did not grind the rears as much, becuz I don't think too many poeple will see them or care.

[dykz34]

PS: The front primaries are a different length than the rears on that set... What are the two dimensions?

[Anonymous]

PS: The front primaries are a different length than the rears on that set... What are the two dimensions?

The front and the rear primaries are both exactly 30".

[dykz34]

You just said that they weren't over on MyMonte.com... get your story straight!

[VerbotenZ34]

OH MY EYES!!! PLEASE GET OUT THE GRINDER!!!

They don't have to be pretty, sweetheart - they just have to eat Acura's

Verboten

[GPXSS]

Cmon people lighten up.. My welding class is about over so I find myself cretiqueing everyones work.

From what I've read, this is the easiest way to fab up headers:
tack all the parts up as you go starting with the cylinders hardest to get at
Once its all tacked up and you know it fits, remove each pipe assembly and weld it up individually (gives you room to move around)
Grind them down, then weld each pipe back up to the flange and then to the collector.

Im not knocking your work Aaron, just making a joke.

Where did you buy your bends from, and did you buy all J's or U's?