Thoughts on copper head gaskets

[ForcedFirebird]

Does anybody have any input on them?

I was considering making some.

Ben mentioned they aren't good for regularly driven cars, any more suggestions, ideas or experiences to share?

[Z26-T]

Only bad thing I've really heard about them is how you have to re-torque the heads after getting them to operating temp. So basically tearing it back down would kinda suck, but only take another hour or so.

[ForcedFirebird]

Only bad thing I've really heard about them is how you have to re-torque the heads after getting them to operating temp. So basically tearing it back down would kinda suck, but only take another hour or so.

Cometic's site (for the MLS gaskets), say you have to do the same thing though.

[pocket-rocket]

But once you get that done, how often do you have to do it again? Just once, or like every time you take it to the drag strip where it has seen a lot of boost?

[ForcedFirebird]

Supposed to be once. You need the gaskets to go through a heat cycle to make sure they are seated.

[Z26-T]

Supposed to be once. You need the gaskets to go through a heat cycle to make sure they are seated.

Yep.

Gotta do it with the MLS and copper just once. Thats why a lot of guys just run the graphite ones. Bolt up once and you're good. But it's probably good to re-torque those types of things after a heat cycle. Lots of guys like to do it, just to make sure nothing moved around or w/e.

[01GPGT]

I had them on my 1982 grand prix (it had a 1969 Oldsmobile 350 from a cutlass ram rod ) and they worked great I was running that car hard never blew out a head gasket (the engine had 10.5:1 comp stock the copper raised it some)


And yes the re-torque is just after the initial brake in with the older engines it took 5 mins with the newer ones with all the accessories I can see it taking an hour

[SappySE107]

First I have heard that you had to do this with MLS. I guess GM does this at the factory with their newer 60V6s?

[Z26-T]

First I have heard that you had to do this with MLS. I guess GM does this at the factory with their newer 60V6s?

Good point. Never had to do it with the head gaskets on the I-5 3.5L which are a GM MLS style... Always out there to prove me wrong ben . Had a couple friends that installed the MLS aftermarket and they tell you to re-torque them like on the copper ones. Only worked at 1 shop that installed copper gaskets and he didn't re-torque them. But the guy also had the truck come back a week later for a leak...

[ForcedFirebird]

If stock head volts are used...

Installation Instructions

Cometic MLS gaskets install just as an old style composite material gasket.
Be sure the head and deck surfaces are machined to an adequate finish as detailed above.
We recommend using a couple of light coats of Permatex Coppercoat to ensure a good water seal.
If any water seepage should occur allow the engine to heat cycle a few times, most likely it will seal itself once the gaskets form to the head and deck. If it continues to seep add a can of Justice Brothers Radiator Pepper Based Sealer Part # RSL/2 about $7.00 to the cooling system.
Tork to bolt manufacturers specifications, re-tork should not be required with aftermarket ARP bolts or studs.

[pocket-rocket]

Well performance guys (like most people here) don't mind doing stuff the hard way or tearing engines down, so I personally don't see why people would be afraid of them.