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Plans for L32/3X00 Hybrid

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    You will end up with an extra heater core hose on your engine since there's one on the water pump for the 3.4, and in two places on the FWD manifolds.

    Throttle cable can be pirated from a GM truck and is a direct fit (have part number at shop).

    The TB sensors are a direct swap, they are the same.

    The t-stat needs to be the FWD unit.

    You can boost the 11.5:1 SCR motor, just be aware that the tuning has to be spot on.

    Pacesetters work, you just need to slot the top holes of the flanges and the roofs will match the headers just fine, the 1.5" primaries being round will just barely interrupt the "square" corners on the bottom of the "D" shaped exhaust ports of the FWD heads. GM raised the roofs, the bottom mounting holes stayed in the same location.

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  • pocket-rocket
    replied
    Originally posted by CNCguy View Post
    Max... There is a rubber hose connecting the metal tube to the heater core. You should be able to remove that and run a rubber hose from the heater core to the LIM. If clearance is tight you could find a preformed hose.
    I was going to say, I couldn't see GM throwing a 3-4 foot metal line on the end of the heater core, lol. It's like that metal line that runs along the passenger side wheel well in the W's.

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  • tkoforpresident
    replied
    Good news, I just looked at my Haynes manual (since my car is buried under 4 feet of snow) and the heater core hose is only connected by one of those crappy spring clamps at the heater core. This means I should be able to take it off, get a few feet of matching hose size and run it down to the LIM outlet in the back. Not only will this look cleaner than the current setup but should also get rid of some unwanted piping up front. Unless the bend is more prominent than I can perceive from looking at pictures (and my memory) I don't think it will bend in an undesirable manner.

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  • tkoforpresident
    replied
    sounds good guys. Thanks

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  • bszopi
    replied
    That metal line is just press fit into the manifold, so if you wanted to go with the fitting route, it could be done. But, I'd look into Marc's suggestion first.

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  • CNCguy
    replied
    Max... There is a rubber hose connecting the metal tube to the heater core. You should be able to remove that and run a rubber hose from the heater core to the LIM. If clearance is tight you could find a preformed hose.

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  • TechRod
    replied
    I'm sure someone with some hands-on experience will log in soon and shed some light on this for both of us.
    I'm planning a similar top swap on my 3.4L Chevette (at least another year away) and that tube will actually work out great for my engine bay.
    I'll be keeping my eyes peeled on your build

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  • tkoforpresident
    replied
    or perhaps I could just use a hose clamp?

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  • TechRod
    replied
    Tapping a hole isn't very difficult, but can be tricky the first time. I'm sure a friendly machine shop would do it rather cheaply.

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  • tkoforpresident
    replied
    if it is possible i wouldn't know how to do it lol

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  • TechRod
    replied
    Would it be possible to remove the tube and tap the hole for a fitting?

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  • tkoforpresident
    replied
    Originally posted by pocket-rocket View Post
    Where does the rest of that tube go to? If it goes to the heater core it leads to the firewall, at the rear of the engine bay, possibly on the passenger side. It's safe to run a decent run of rubber reinforced heater hose if you have to, as long as it's secured and not stretched tight so the drivetrain doesn't rip it loose.
    yeah it does go to the heater core which is on the passenger side in the rear but the rubber hose turns into a metal line by then. I suppose i could always cut that tube and then attach a short stretch of hose from there to the outlet on the LIM...

    just seems odd that in all the threads I have read about this swap nobody has once mentioned this modification which is indeed a pretty prominent one.

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  • pocket-rocket
    replied
    Where does the rest of that tube go to? If it goes to the heater core it leads to the firewall, at the rear of the engine bay, possibly on the passenger side. It's safe to run a decent run of rubber reinforced heater hose if you have to, as long as it's secured and not stretched tight so the drivetrain doesn't rip it loose.

    Leave a comment:


  • tkoforpresident
    replied
    To illustrate my point here is a picture of a similar 3.4/3500 build.

    I have highlighted the heater hose inlet in RED so you can see how it is at the front of the engine bay. What should I do? Just run a long enough radiator hose all the way to the rear of the motor?


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  • tkoforpresident
    replied
    ok here is one I've been trying to figure out...

    here is a picture of a 3500 LIM




    That metal tube running along the center is the heater hose tube is it not?

    How the heck am I suppose to connect that to my current heater hose? When you flip the 3500 LIM around so that the thermostat is at the front of the motor this makes the heater hose tube exit at the rear of the engine on the passenger side. Anyone who has seen a 3.4 iron head knows that the heater hose is at the front of the accessory bracket.

    I will try to find a picture if need be.

    Is it possible to run a hose all the way back there? I don't get it.

    Leave a comment:

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