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The adjustable Koni's did help in the area of lifting so I don't think I need the limiting straps... But I probably will just throw a second set of rubber spring helpers in the back to see if that helps some more.
Still trying to find time to work on the direct port system...
Still learning, but this is one I did last night after having a paint gun fall on my head from the top of the shelf I was moving and proceed to bleed all over the bathroom... LOL
I have a foot pedal coming this upcoming week so I'll have better control vs just an on/off switch and constant current level. I also have larger electrodes on the way and a smaller filler, right now I'm completely backwards, welding with a 1/16 tungsten and 3/32 rod... This is 303 stainless with 309L filler rod.
Thats the first plate to plate fillet weld I've done with the setup so far so I have to say not bad for my first time as well as having way to large of a filler rod.
Well had some fun and learning last night... As noted in my other fun thread of digging a trench to my garage, I also picked up a cheap plasma/MMA/Tig welder to play with. Seeing how I don't have the volume as any shop would I just couldn't justify spending thousands on a TIG that I would use only from time to time. All I can say is well it works and works great for what it is. DEFINITELY a learning curve going from MIG to this. I'll be cutting up my old air tank some more and practicing on it as much as I can.
I have to say the hardest thing for me is the fact that I don't have a foot pedal, It's a hand trigger so it's a bit harder to old the torch in a way I can easily manipulate it as well as push the trigger on. Looking at getting a foot pedal for it but I just don't want to spend the money quite yet. It is amazing though at how much less current you need to do something with a TIG vs a MIG welder... and its nice to just change filler rods when going from stainless to mild and not having to swap tanks from a 75/25 mix to a TRI mix as well as swapping spools of wire... It's nice that the 100% argon works for both.
well yeah I know its not like a bumpstop at that point, but its replacing whats there... Currently a football will not fit in my springs... I think I have about 2" of space between the bump stop and where it hits. Hence why i said I would be removing mine to fit that mod in there. I don't think I would even have the space if i jacked up the rear to fit it. I currently have spring helpers, the solid rubber insulator between coils and that has helped quite a bit... I'm tempted to just get a second set of them and put the those in at the track to further help any squat.
Solid bar was one of my plans and may still be high on the list since it's very easy to swap a set of shocks at the track.
It's more like an air bag than bump stop. Bump stop just stops the spring/shock from compressing more than it should, the football mod will keep the spring from compressing as much (about the same as increasing spring rates). Nice thing about the football is you drive to the track with it deflated and your car will ride normal, then inflate it at the track.
I always wanted to try bolting a solid bar in place of the rear shocks on a FWD car and see how that helps the launch, just wouldn't want to drive it around like that haha.
EDIt: There was a video on youtube showing the installation and effects from different pressures in the football, but I can't find it anymore
I'm thinking of just doing these, http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...110&cc=1028887 But I hate the idea of giving up my Koni adjustable shocks back there... Maybe I'll put them in only when I go to the track.
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