My 89 Camaro Project

[geldartb]

little too early to be smoking out the mosquito's.

[3400-95-Modified]

Do you own stock in Seafoam? lol

[geldartb]

sounds good

[Superdave]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b7iXW7Snddg&feature=youtu.be

[Superdave]

ended up being 2 degrees off, not as bad as i originally thought but it's all fixed now.


Accessory drive is all wrapped up finally, here are before and after pics..

Before, the 3.4 cast aluminum brackets worked great but they cluttered up the front of the engine and i wasn't happy with the ICM location.. It is an OLD pic from before i loomed the harness and flipped the fuel rail around backwards. Best i could find though.




After; PS pump mounted with custom brackets, alternator relocated with a BCC alternator bracket and a 6" turnbuckle setup for a tensioner. Also put in a new water pump, 3.4 timing cover (has smaller lower hose outlet that matches the hose i'm using) and cleaned up the wiring. ICM/Coils moved to firewall and a ton of other small stuff. This should be more reliable (and IMO looks much better)




Filter box will go back on before i drive the car, need to finish re-painting it though.

[pocket-rocket]

I don't think thats the politically correct term! LMAO

Everyone always blames the spark retard... The poor guy can't help that he's slow!

[3400-95-Modified]

Also found a little issue with my external trigger, the ring was retarded around 6 degrees VS the timing marks on the balancer. It's been fixed but i'll have to wait till tomorrow to run the car.

I don't think thats the politically correct term! LMAO

[Superdave]

New timing cover and water pump are installed along with the accessory drive finally finished. Now i can wrap up the small details on the exhaust and get this thing back on the road... and to the track.






Also found a little issue with my external trigger, the ring was retarded around 6 degrees VS the timing marks on the balancer. It's been fixed but i'll have to wait till tomorrow to run the car.


HUGE thanks to Marc and John for the parts!

[3400-95-Modified]

I figured it would work ok on paint paint, its just that ceramic stuff once cured is pretty hard.

[pocket-rocket]

Ben used it on his MGB in the engine bay. It took it down to the bare metal, but that paint wasn't heavy. I liked how it left the surface perfectly intact and bare.

[3400-95-Modified]

I've recently got a bag of baking soda to try out soda blasting. Seems to work great on just surface oxidation or rust scale, but doesn't cut through heavy paint, or at least it wouldn't take off the ceramic spray that I use on my headers.

[dskopek]

I have been using chrushed walnut sheels for blasting, might take a little longer but you can blow everything off when done and its clean.

[Superdave]

i had aluminum oxide but it always left a thick coating of dust.

I wash off the parts with brake cleaner after blasting, that seems to get all the glass off so the paint sticks pretty well. Been using it on heads, LIM's and UIM's for years.

[ForcedFirebird]

Shouldn't be blasting with glass. Not only does it embed in the aluminum, it closes all the pores and paint etc chips off even more than raw aluminum. We use aluminum oxide.

[Superdave]

I've searched everywhere around here and can't find it, i've been using carbon-off and it works great but stinks like hell. Then glass media in the blast cabinet to clean everything up.


I do plan on taking my large ultrasonic cleaner home from work, it heats to over 200F.. that combined with any degreaser and a 90 minute cycle should clean up anything.