'96 Century general project thread

[LeftVentricle]

It is an LX9 "3500", which is a 3.5L variant of the 60 degree Chevy V6. This particular one came from a 2005 Chevrolet Malibu, with 116k miles according to LKQ. This 3.5, unlike the later ones, is based on the 3.4L "3400" LA1, with updated head and intake designs, and gaskets that won't fail like the earlier Chevy engines. The later 3.5s are a smaller displacement version of the 3.9L, so they have variable valve timing and E85 capability, which are very difficult to make work in older cars.

This engine is not really plug-and-play. I have had to order the 3500 swap kit and 1997 PCM from Milzy Motorsports. Mike spent almost two hours on the phone with me, ironing out all the details of this swap, making sure the computer would be programmed how I wanted it, doing up a custom throttle body, and all that. He also said that, if there were interest in the A-body community, he might put together a swap kit specifically for A-bodies, using my car as the prototype!

Particulars of swapping this engine into my car, in no particular order:

• I will not be using the LX9 upper intake. It is wholly incompatible with my car. It lacks three vacuum nipples I need, for the HVAC, MAP sensor, and vacuum modulator for the transmission. I will be using an LG8 "3100" upper, which is what Oklahoma used in his top end swap.
• Since I'm not using the 3500 upper, I will not be using three parts from the swap kit: throttle body adapter, coil pack adapters, and MAP adapter pigtail.
• I'm also using an LG8 front valve cover I got from a yard off of a Malibu, which has a GM Goodwrench crate motor sticker on it proclaiming it to be a 3.1L.
• I will have to use my stock exhaust, since the downpipe is routed differently than any other car/engine.
• The throttle body will be from an LA1, modified by Mike to (hopefully) be plug-and-play with my stock cables.
• I will be using my stock fuel rail with 24 pound ACCEL injectors that are the same "fat" design as my stock injectors. The newer "thin" injectors have different connectors, and they are too tall to fit under my stock rail.

I'm sure more will come up once I yank the stock engine and start transferring over parts. Look for that in the coming days.

[LeftVentricle]

[robertisaar]

this is why I don't feel bad about "overfilling" a 60V6 by up to a quart, I have yet to see any evidence of foaming occur(I don't think losses through PCV accelerated either) and it does a good job of preventing situations like this.

[LeftVentricle]

Be careful friends. If you rub the lamp on the dashboard and let the genie out, this is what happens.

[robertisaar]

The car bushing slid right onto the van bar. Thanks for brainstorming with me.

GM's choices of where to save money are odd ones, but at least they're consistent.

I don't know if Sensa-Tracs are softer than FE1 struts, but I have them for the front of the Monte Carlo, with some blue Monroe(or Gabriel? not sure, I know they were fairly cheap) on the rear, I don't think it made an already soft suspension(with slightly oversized swaybars front and rear) any worse.

[LeftVentricle]

I've used Sensa-Tracs before on this car, and they felt fine. Road quality in Las Vegas is actually pretty decent. However, in a couple years, assuming I still have this car, I may want to change over to something more sporting. Comfort is a higher priority right now though, since this is the family car.

[Purple pit]

For me it was more of reaction time if there are multi pot holes in a row. With just two mid size ones my tires seemed to stay in the air and that put a lot of fear in me. After a change to the blues that was no longer a problem(also GR-2's later on another L-body, yes it took them that long to fix them). If the tire is in the air the brakes are useless. Your car may not be the same do to more weight. Or it could be worse. I'll just say that they use to float like an old 70's car. That may be a plus for you?

[LeftVentricle]

I think so. I posted a picture earlier in the thread of the car and van bars.

EDIT: Looks like I'm wrong about posting a picture. Here is one.


Van bar on right, car bar on left.


The car bushing slid right onto the van bar. Thanks for brainstorming with me.

[robertisaar]

relevant part numbers(most sizes grabbed from stuff like Tonkin or Nalley, not sure why bushing and bar sizes aren't matching?):

96 Century Wagon:
22mm bar - 14089551
24mm bar - 14089552

21mm bushing (subframe) - 14036361
22mm bushing (subframe) - 14036362

19mm bushing (control arm) - 14093233
21mm bushing (control arm) - 14093234

95 Lumina APV:
bar - 14089584

bushing (subframe) - 14036363

bushing (control arm) - 10149423



10149423 was superseded by 19208659, which:

http://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/products/INSULATOR-Stabilizer-Shaft/2882085/19208659.html

shows to be applicable to early A-bodies and basically all U-bodies.

http://www.oemautopartsandaccessories.com/catalog/parts/view/n/stabilizer-bar-bushing-19208659/v/pontiac-trans-sport-1994/vtec/27964/pid/2dacfe0e892603ab/

that's one source I'm finding when punching in 19208659, but it's odd rockauto doesn't list any. is it a situation like with a w-body where the bar tapers down for the control arm connection to a common size for all bars?

[LeftVentricle]

The bar is from a 1995 Chevrolet Lumina APV, 26 mm. The car is a 1996 Buick Century, 22 mm bar. I don't recall if the ends that attach to the control arms are the same between car and van. If you can get poly bushings, that would be cool. If not, regular rubber ones will be fine.

[robertisaar]

i may be able to cross-reference some stuff for you.... got an exact application to lookup? I'm not sure what you'll need with the combo of parts you have in mind.

[LeftVentricle]

a) $20 each, b) will be worlds better than what I have now, which are original struts taken off my '93 parts car. I don't do autocross or anything like that. The closest I come is taking a cloverleaf onramp. I'm more concerned with the car being able to handle more weight, since I use it as a wagon very frequently.

I need to replace the sway bar bushings as well. They creak when going over speed bumps when it's cold out. I can get the bar-to-subframe bushings for the van bar easily enough, but there aren't any listings for the bar-to-control arm bushings for the van, only for the car. I've checked Rock Auto, Autozone, O'Reilley, Pep Boys, Amazon.

[Purple pit]

Van struts should help. Not a big fan of Sensa-Craps as they are very sloppy and too slow in reaction time. Had better luck with the blues( the mid range replacements). Gr-2's or whatever they are called now are nice(if you get a good set).

[LeftVentricle]

As I said earlier in the thread, the A-body cars and the U-body vans (up to '96) share lots of components, and a member of the A-body board found that van struts are directly compatible with the cars. He installed them on this 1984 Olympic Edition Century. According to him, they offer stiffer valving and improved handling with little to no negative effect on ride quality. So I picked up a set of Monroe 71820 Sensa-Tracs from Rock Auto. They were on sale for about $20 each. I still need to get new variable-rate springs, seats and mounts, but I will install them soon. Watch this space. I already have a van sway bar, which, even with stock suspension, improved handling immensely. I expect the struts will make it even better.

Also, I have designs of acquiring another project. The local craigslist has a 2001 Impala (3400) for $500 with a bad head gasket. If it's still available in the next week or so, I will probably pick it up. Both my wife and one of my daughters have expressed interest in learning how to tear apart an engine. I may post another thread about that car if I get it, but the procedure is more or less the same as what I documented for my wagon.

[Purple pit]

Costs less to have a pipe without the flare. That is the way things work these days. Keep on them and don't give up. Think about a lawyer. A trans rebuild is around $1,500, not sure if that still falls under small claims.