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3400/325 e30...project GMW!

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  • Mars
    replied
    This thread is soo full of win.

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  • MidnightriderZ24
    replied
    new update, i got clutch components. out comes the mocked up engine, accessory brackets will be made, clutch install, then comes a custom driveshaft.
    clutch is a stage 3 6 puck. disc from a svo turbo mustang, high clamp load pressure plate, s10 slave/fork/throwout bearing, flywheel is for a 3.1l cavalier.

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  • Strike_Zero
    replied
    I bet if this was installed in an E36, the entire engine would behind the front axle center line . . . hmmm

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  • MidnightriderZ24
    replied
    if the hydroboost was mounted with an angle pointing towards the ds fender, and headers/manifolds to clear there would be space. tight, but space.
    (this was the first crossover design)

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  • MidnightriderZ24
    replied
    Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
    So true. There's very little room when measuring from subframe to hood, that's also the reason people add skid plates to lowered cars. Broken oil pans are commonplace lol.



    Not sure how you are going to like that, the brakes are very heavy when you take out the boost assist - hope your braking foot is is heavy lol. Lee is an excellent guy to work with, though.

    Have you looked into the remote brake systems at all? There's also a hydro-boost setup if you are retaining a power steering pump. We share a shop with Condor Speed Shop, if you are getting rid of the P/S they sell a nice piece for bypassing the fluid on the rack.

    Keeping e30 rack? There's several nice upgrades that only require a spacer to keep the angle correct, or the firewall hole has to be clearanced.
    the engine is as low as it can go without modifying the oil pan (about 1/8'' or so). the upper intake sits lower now than it does in the picture, i ditched the spacers.
    the car already has a power steering delete block on it that allows fluid flow but im opting for power. im not keepin it or the e30 rack, but im going with a 95 m3 rack, powered. as far as hydro boost i dont want to mess with it, im going with manual. i know what is required to make a proper system work, ive drove a 240 sx with the pedal/triple master cylinder setup and it feels like a solid pedal, and like it. rx7 brakes are going on the front, which arent a floating caliper.

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  • Will'sFiero
    replied
    Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
    So true. There's very little room when measuring from subframe to hood, that's also the reason people add skid plates to lowered cars. Broken oil pans are commonplace lol.

    Not sure how you are going to like that, the brakes are very heavy when you take out the boost assist - hope your braking foot is is heavy lol. Lee is an excellent guy to work with, though.

    Have you looked into the remote brake systems at all? There's also a hydro-boost setup if you are retaining a power steering pump.
    That's pretty much what I wanted to know... Is the 60 degree narrow enough that you can use a hydroboost in the stock location, or do you need to go to manual brakes or get creative with the linkage.

    LS1 swaps into E30's can get creative with the linkage... The left valve cover partially occludes the stock brake booster mounting hole, but the due to the size of the bellhousing, the engine has to sit far enough forward in the bay that there's room on the firewall for an offset linkage.

    M60 (BMW V8 ) swaps into E30's need to get *REALLY* creative as the left cylinder head completely covers the hole for the stock brake booster mounting location, and the engine sits far enough back in the bay that there's no room in the bay for an offset linkage. Basically, the offset linkage has to be built *INSIDE* the firewall.

    I would expect the 60 degree engine to leave a LOT more room for a booster than either of those two swaps.

    So do you have pics of the stock brake booster location?
    Thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Originally posted by Will'sFiero View Post
    I was thinking that was for hood clearance.
    After all, that's why BMW leaned all their engines over.

    What did you have to do to clear the brake booster? Are you running power brakes? Do you have any good shots of the booster/master cylinder area?
    So true. There's very little room when measuring from subframe to hood, that's also the reason people add skid plates to lowered cars. Broken oil pans are commonplace lol.

    Originally posted by MidnightriderZ24 View Post
    no booster. im not sure if im going to go with a wilwood triple master cylinder pedal setup, or just a massive brakes booster delete plate.
    Not sure how you are going to like that, the brakes are very heavy when you take out the boost assist - hope your braking foot is is heavy lol. Lee is an excellent guy to work with, though.

    Have you looked into the remote brake systems at all? There's also a hydro-boost setup if you are retaining a power steering pump. We share a shop with Condor Speed Shop, if you are getting rid of the P/S they sell a nice piece for bypassing the fluid on the rack.

    Keeping e30 rack? There's several nice upgrades that only require a spacer to keep the angle correct, or the firewall hole has to be clearanced.

    Leave a comment:


  • MidnightriderZ24
    replied
    no booster. im not sure if im going to go with a wilwood triple master cylinder pedal setup, or just a massive brakes booster delete plate.

    Leave a comment:


  • Will'sFiero
    replied
    I was thinking that was for hood clearance.
    After all, that's why BMW leaned all their engines over.

    What did you have to do to clear the brake booster? Are you running power brakes? Do you have any good shots of the booster/master cylinder area?

    Leave a comment:


  • MidnightriderZ24
    replied
    moving it away from the belt and down lower in the engine bay. it also allowed a better angle for charge pipes lining up with a 90 degree coupler. look at some previous pictures of the other manifold, it comes straight out, thus more cutting of the hood lol.

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    What was the purpose of moving the TB?

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  • Jonpro03
    replied

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  • MidnightriderZ24
    replied
    few other things done. grabbed a spare 3500 upper intake manifold cut the neck and relocated the throttle body. intercooler i got supported and cold side pipe with blow off valve. next up engine accessories.



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  • neophile_17
    replied
    I never really got into drag racing but in that world it was my impression that any camber that wasn't 0 was bad camber. That seems perfect for a straight axle. Also while the unsprung weight may be less the rotating mass is greater due to the CV/U joints.

    On the road racing side dynamic camber change is very important. I wonder how much adjustment would be required to get go from 0 dynamic to -5.

    ~sam

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    We have eccentric trailing arm bushings installed and fully adjusted out to have flat contact patch while lowered, never thought about "preloading" them, we would have to install a camber correction (or raise subframe). We connect the rear sway bar, disconnect front and use soft springs in the rear. Best launch to date is 2.0 60' with 360whp/2100lbs. There's a video of the weight transfer we are able to get in the appropriate thread, look how much the wheels tuck lol...



    Either way, it's a long road course car. Got a few sponsors to give rebuilt parts at cost or employee discount due to the magazine coverage (was also in Oct issue of Performance BMW mag) and the car owner is getting his NASA license so it can become a time trials car. Don't think it will ever see drag racing again, but the 2002 will and it has e30 suspension
    Last edited by ForcedFirebird; 11-14-2011, 07:26 PM.

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