oil pressure wont work!

[robertisaar]

problem with 2 stroke oil: it might screw with the cat.

the reason i asked if the engine was still out was so that if it was, just fill a little oil in it, and make it a george foreman grill: just rotate it... a lot and that would get up the cylinder walls.

EDIT: fogging oil might help...

[Firehawk94]

Ive got a suggestion. Why not just pull the plugs and fill all the cylinders with good ol' 10w 30 motor oil and mind me this will make a huge mess, with the plugs still pulled turn the engine over for 10 seconds at a time....3 times, for 30 seconds total. This will fully lubricate the cylinders without pumping a whole lot of oil into your exhaust and intake while somewhat saving your rings from being scored to bad from the rust. I performed this technique on a 350 that was in an old C10 stepside that was locked down from rain water gettin in the carb. (no breather) it worked quite well and the engine is still running to this day. You should be fine especially if most of the rust is located on the bottom most part of the cylinders.

Just be sure to degrease your engine bay after

[sr20hardbody]

k thats what im gonna do then is fill up each spark plug hole and let it sit for a few days

and i have cat and resonator delete so no problems there

thanks again guys i feel pretty relieved hearing theres still a chance everyone else i've talked to said if its ran for any amount of time with no oil pressure its toast and i dont like to believe that lol

[robertisaar]

k thats what im gonna do then is fill up each spark plug hole and let it sit for a few days

and i have cat and resonator delete so no problems there

thanks again guys i feel pretty relieved hearing theres still a chance everyone else i've talked to said if its ran for any amount of time with no oil pressure its toast and i dont like to believe that lol

spun bearings are a possibility.... but if you don't notice anything wrong within a couple months of driving, i'd say you're in the clear...

EDIT: pull the o2 sensor out of the exhaust as well. for the initial fire-up, you don't want all of that shit sticking to it. i don't know what all chemicals that o2 sensors don't like but i know its not good for them to be coated in oil residue...

[Firehawk94]

k thanks again guys i feel pretty relieved hearing theres still a chance everyone else i've talked to said if its ran for any amount of time with no oil pressure its toast and i dont like to believe that lol

I cant say that I dont blame you man. IMO just because an engine is ran without oil pressure doesnt mean that its toast. I mean its not good for it by no means, but if you didnt spin a bearing then you are good......lol robert just posted the same thing..... great mines think alike!!!

[sr20hardbody]

actually im using the old o2 sensor from the 3100 so im due for a new 1 anyways if everything works out good i'll get one of those denso's heard they're good.

i think it should be good as long as i do all this lubing cuz i never heard a knock just loud ticking from the top so i'll let you guys know how it turns out.

[sr20hardbody]

k i've been doing some more thinking and i've decided i dont really wanna fill the cylinders up with oil and spin the motor over making a huge mess not sure if anyones seen my swap but it would be a damn shame to carelessly fling oil all over it



so im wondering if it would be ok if i used wd40 instead i heard some guys use it to lube cylinder walls on engines not assembled to keep them from rusting out so i was wondering if it would be a good idea? main reason is the pistons sit like this \ / so hows the oil gonna get to the very top of the rings/cylinder? im thinking wd40 can be aimed directly where i want it through the spark plug hole and i wont have to use no where near as much like it would if i were to use oil.

as for the latest i've added a total of 19 quarts of oil and that was enough to make oil poor out of the hole that the oil pump drive gear slips into so does this mean the bottom end is completly filled up the oil has settled and the level is now flush with that hole.

[robertisaar]

thats a lot of oil.... i mentioned fogging oil before, which when you're using wd-40 like that, thats pretty much what it becomes... i don't know if that'll be enough though...

[Firehawk94]

Wow I hope you plan on reusing the 19 quarts of oil!!! Thats alot of oil! Anywho I dont blame you for not wanting to dirty up that engine compartment. Although, placing some motor oil in the cylinders would ensure everything is lubed correctly, but its your choice. Are you sure you need to lube the topend? I mean the pistons and rings would have kept any moisture from getting to the upper portions of the cylinder walls. It looks like from your pics that its only the bottom most part of the cylinders that is rusted. I would bet my paycheck that the topend doesnt need to be lubed, but to be on the safe side I dont see why WD40 wouldnt suffice, but the only thing with WD40 is it will evaporate. You wouldnt have to fill the cylinder slap full with oil.....just put a couple tablespoons and youll be good!!!

[sr20hardbody]

thanks again for the quick replys!

yeah i know its a ton of oil i used a mixture of oriellys,supertech and castrol all 10w30 most of what i had laying around. i plan on using mobil1 if this engine pulls through. i thought about saving most of the oil when i drain it though it was about $40 worth

the top end ran dry cuz thats what was ticking so bad its actually the back head that was the loudest im thinking since the front valve cover gets filled with oil i heard it takes about 5 minutes of spinning the oil pump with a drill to get oil to the top end is this true? when i spun the oil pump with a 18volt dewault set on high speed it shot oil out the pumps gear hole within 5 seconds! this was before i added all that oil this was with normal fill level.

so yeah you're right the chambers should be rust free since i left the exhaust on and intake manifolds and the heads have never been pulled. i'll just add those spoon fulls of oil then and start spinning the motor over by hand untill i feel it spins smoothly then i'll spin it with the starter.

[torq455]

don't use WD-40. it's super fast burning an will cause detonation. i found that out many years ago with my sunbird 2.0. i shot WD-40 in the TB and just cranked the motor over for a second, it fired right away, i shut it off, and it dieseled for a couple of seconds. it's not a bad idea to squirt a couple of pumps through the spark plug holes with an oil can. let it sit for a bit, then turn the engine over by hand a few revolutions . the combustion chambers won't rust since they are aluminum. the problem is you can't have all of the valves closed at the same time. moisture (humidity) will eventually move to the drier air inside the engine and eventually rust the valves and cylinders.

it will take a long time for the lifters to quiet up. i had a 3100 simply sit for 6 months, no oil change or anything. i remember it seemed like it took 30 seconds for the last lifter to shut up!! just make sure you have oil pressure, and the lifters should eventually sort themselves out.

[60dgrzbelow0]

I know you'll want to take a swing at my chin for coming so late to the thread with the possible hardware you needed three + years ago, but since nobody makes a decent, pressure sealing OIL PUMP DRIVE PRIMER TOOL for the Sixty* End-Users, for my current complete 3.4L 207 CID VIN "S" rebuild, I decided to buy the ones sold for the SBC and 90 degree blocks and just modify it to work with the 8MM Hex Drive through the OIL PUMP DRIVE engine block hole. Here are some images of a dimensional comparison between the stock Oil Pump Drive W/Hex Shaft installed and the Oil Pump Primer Tool I built. In addition to the three attached images, I have more on this tool build and other albums specific to the complete rebuild of the 3.4L 207 CID L32 V6 VIN "S" Engine on my Photo Bucket Site listed below. I hope this proves helpful.

http://s557.photobucket.com/albums/ss19/60dgrzbelow0/ANEWV6OILPUMPRIMINGTOOL/

[sr20hardbody]

wow thats very helpful! now i can quit looking for that tool since it doesnt exist. i dont really wanna use that bit extension i have the bit may fall off and it doesnt turn straight it wants to bind and i doubt i can keep a rag sealed tight enough to keep oil from going everywhere.

have you considered renting out that tool?! if so i'll be more then happy to be your first renter

[60dgrzbelow0]

Forgive me for saying this, but having seen the Flex-Drive you were intent on using, I was concerned that under the resistance of high oil pressure...the tightly packed wired shaft of that thing has been known to snap off and unfurl, causing serious injury to you (or your kids, if they like watching their dad fix his favorite Auto Toy).

[60dgrzbelow0]

What I will do is take some very precise measurements of and identify each and every piece of the tool and make a list for posting in here so others can make the tool themselves. The hard work of Trial and Error is done on its design...the only thing I have left to do is to TIG weld and strengthen the socket arrangements from snapping off in the battle between the 1/2" Hand Drill and the resistance the Oil Pump will surely encounter while trying to pump the Oil through each and every galley and bearing area...under huge pressure...Once that part has been done...I will memorialize using it when the time comes to prime my re-build with some step-by-step photos. I generally try to post all my work on this project on my Photo Bucket site where I have methodically made many assembly process images for reference. Just look down the Table of Contents on the left side of the opening page for all the images and step-by-steps stuff that has been done (so far):

http://s557.photobucket.com/albums/ss19/60dgrzbelow0/