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Wow, never mind on the longer stacks. It's going to tough enough to get a good amount of flow into those with some sort of air cleaner. It's almost like you needed to have the intake runners turn and face the front of the car. That would effect runner length though.
This is something I need to do since I have like 10 of these bolts lying around. LOL
To add to this whole thread though, I wish more racers around here were like this an invested the time and money to engineer their own engine's and try to find power... I've been in circle track for a while and when the driver started he did most of his own work till he could afford a built engine by an engine builder. He had to go that route because more and more people were doing that so it made competition harder since your racing against someone who just bought their engine. I think doing it this way, not only do you feel more involved in whats going on and learn a TON, but you also get the satisfaction to know when you do win you built it!
You would be ok stacking ARP washers as long as you had enough threads engaged on the nuts.
Did the shop use the same torque when line honing?
Yes, I told them to torque the main caps to 82 ft lbs with the lube.
So did I not only take the 4 main caps out the Lumina that I disassembled, but one more thing.
A camshaft bolt.
I welded a steel tube to the bolt.
It is much easier to install the camshaft now.
I want everybody to be sure, I am not stacking the washers on the main caps.
The machine shop did that because they thought there is not enough thread in the bolts.
It was during the main line honing.
But there is no issue with the main stud kit.
I have cut them shorter, some 2 mm.
82 ft lbs with ARB lube.
The crank turns freely.
So, everything is OK so far.
I'd love to see a video with a 60 degree pushing 8200 rpm. I'm targeting 8500 with my build with a turbo. Trying to lighten up the valve train a bit to get there easier.
There is no issue using two washers with the ARP studs, as long as the washers are ARP washers. ARP uses the same material for their washers ass their bolts they harden and flat grind them. If you use a non hardened washer you may see some deformation of the washer.
I heard about the ARP issue and decided to get custom studs made instead that fit the block. Its probably easiest to just do what you did or pay ARP for custom studs.
Out of curiosity the main bearing cap that was discoloured, how did it read dimensionally? Was it out of round at all when torqued in place?
Do you think you can break 300 HP without more RPM? Great build btw!
Here is a picture of the "new" and the damaged #2 main cap.
There is a minor out of roundness in the cap aftermost.
The closest cap has gone the honing prosedure this week.
I hope I am going to get the 300 hp out of the engine this time.
But definately it takes more rpm.
Probably over 8000 rpm , lets say some 8200 rpm.
The best hp so far came 7800 rpm.
And pictures of the new "300 hp intake".
Still needs some finishing.
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