Wow, no wonder GM is going under.

[Steel]

Which engineers bright fucking idea was it to use torx heads for caliper bolts? I mean seriously? Now that they stripped out, what the hell am i supposed to do, eh?

I hate this car, anyone wanna buy it?

[RidgeRunner]

RE: Wow, no wonder GM is going under.

How do you strip a Torx bolt head?

[Steel]

easy. Step one - insert properly sized Torx bit into bolt. Step two - turn. Step three - turn harder. Step four, punch yourself in the face as the bolt strips out and your tool breaks loose.

God fobid they use your run of the mill hex head bolt. Nooo.. that'd be too easy.

[GTP091]

Torx Heads

I always found that when I want to remove bolts from brake parts the best way to loosen them up is to heat them up with a torch. They expand against the hole and then shrink when they cool. When they shrink thats when you hit them with a heat treated torx bit and snipe.

[Juglenaut]

RE: Torx Heads

I use lots of WD-40, let it sit for a bit then torch it lightly..If you let WD-40 sit long enough it not so flammable.

Heat will drive the oil in the threads, clean the bolt with cutting tool coolant (tetracholoethylene), and slap a few small dabs of anti-sieze on it.

[Steel]

welp. 2.5 hours of blood sweat and tears + 2 broken cheapie torx's, 1 broken mid grade torx that was ground down and re-broken, 1 snapped matco torx, and 1 slightly skewed snap-on + lots and LOTS of torque + some toch action = brand new, but just as wimpy brakes.

I *still* think the design is terrible.

[Lyle's GTP]

Torx is a good designed head. Were you using a T-60? A hex or allan head would be no better. They would rust out and you would have the same problem. A "good" design would be to use stainless steel with a good copper anti-seize on the threads.

Lyle

[SappySE107]

You could have ground down the outside to fit a wrench or socket...if you felt that would have been faster. None of this is DOHC though so im moving it.

[geoffinbc]

Wow who the fuck tightened it last time? I can get mine on and off with just an allen wrench. Dont need extensions or breaker bars to get my calipers off.

[Guest]

welp. 2.5 hours of blood sweat and tears + 2 broken cheapie torx's, 1 broken mid grade torx that was ground down and re-broken, 1 snapped matco torx, and 1 slightly skewed snap-on + lots and LOTS of torque + some toch action = brand new, but just as wimpy brakes.

I *still* think the design is terrible.

Has nothing to do with the design, has everything to do with the lst idiot to do the brakes on your car.

Ever heard of anit-seize?

[WhiteRaider]

Wow, no wonder GM is going under.

...and I thought it was because they built beauties like this:

[RednBlack]

I think I stepped on one of those...

[Lyle's GTP]

Wow who the fuck tightened it last time? I can get mine on and off with just an allen wrench. Dont need extensions or breaker bars to get my calipers off.

I believe the torque spec for those bolts is 100 ft/lbs. So she's a tight one. Especially when you add a little rust.

Lyle

[geoffinbc]

LOL fuck man its not a lug nut. Its 38LBS on my truck. Should be close to that on your car.

[RednBlack]

Mine come off with a 3/8 ratchet. But I have found stuck ones. I have had success with this. Have someone rap the bolt boss with a hammer as you apply pressure. Or, if you have access, use an impact hammer. Don't hit the caliper. Personally, I would not use heat on cast. Especially on brakes.

Then, when reinstalling, use new dust boots and anti-sieze. CRC makes a good all around no squeal, anti-sieze.