3400 N/A Monte Build Thread

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  • 3400-95-Modified
    replied
    Kit that fits a regular 3x00 install is #6532 $112.00

    and the Z34 listings

    1997-1996 3.4 engine, Lumina Z34 & Monte Carlo Z34 #65202 $234.00
    1995 3.4 engine, Lumina Z34, Monte Carlo Z34 #65167 $231.00
    1994-1991 3.4 engine, Lumina Z34 #65166 $240.00

    Those are all the KV 8.5 PN's

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  • TGP37
    replied
    Originally posted by pocket-rocket View Post
    Magnecor. They used to run $200 a set for the KV-8.5, no clue what they ruin now. They should last the life of the car though. Mine probably have over 100k miles on them and I've no plans on replacing them.

    Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2
    I'm about to sharpie that under the hood somewhere so as to not forget again. Or just buy them....lol

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  • pocket-rocket
    replied
    Originally posted by TGP37 View Post
    Get a boot puller as well. Pocket Rocket knows of a really good brand of spark cables for our motors. I forget, again, the brand but if you can get that info from him it would be the best option.
    Magnecor. They used to run $200 a set for the KV-8.5, no clue what they ruin now. They should last the life of the car though. Mine probably have over 100k miles on them and I've no plans on replacing them.

    Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

    Leave a comment:


  • TGP37
    replied
    Get a boot puller as well. Pocket Rocket knows of a really good brand of spark cables for our motors. I forget, again, the brand but if you can get that info from him it would be the best option.

    If you get a custom set which includes enough for 8 cylinders, keep the extra 2 for repairs on the road.

    I read to not fall for the hype of lowest resistance cables, as that can lead to problems with EM interference.


    the grinding for a better rtv bite seems to be a good idea. I wonder though why it failed....was it too much pressure behind the seal?
    Last edited by TGP37; 08-06-2012, 10:29 AM.

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  • bob442
    replied
    well i ended up cleaning everything down when it was apart, and took those rough 50 grit sanding disks for 90* die grinders, hit the block and intake where the silicon goes, then took the disk off and made some deep length wise scuffs so the silicon has plenty to bite to, that and i let the car sit for 6 hours after i put it all back together so it would cue as much as possible.

    Well i need to decide on plug wires, i need a whole new set as i'm still having intermidiante issues. i'm never using NGK anything again, i dont like bosch, but havent had a bad experiance, and AC/DELCO's are 90$ for a set for my car. any opinions?
    Last edited by bob442; 08-06-2012, 10:06 AM.

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  • TGP37
    replied
    I did cut cork gaskets, two layers and sealed with RTV. But I removed and used the regular RTV seal when I was pulling hair trying to stop a hard to find oil weeping. They were not the source of the leak and probably would have lasted, but when in doubt I tend to stick with the standards tried and true.

    I like your idea, like a stronger RTV.

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  • 3400-95-Modified
    replied
    I know with a 3500 top end the gap is much larger than a 3400 intake so I simply wonder if the RTV over time shrinks and that's what's causing the leak. That's why I want to try a combination of the Rubber 3500 parts and RTV to see if that solves it... but I need to drill the block to fit those gaskets.

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  • TGP37
    replied
    I'm thinking about having strips of steel wool, rough grade, inside the RTV bead. Acting like steel bar in concrete.

    It would really make the RTV seal much stronger. Maybe copper would be better for the environment it is in.

    Leave a comment:


  • 3400-95-Modified
    replied
    My valley is leaking now too... Two or three years after I put it together so really I can't complain since it did last this long.

    This year I'll probably tear it apart and look into using the 3500 rubber valley seals vs the RTV since that just doesn't seem to last.

    Leave a comment:


  • bob442
    replied
    My issues never end with this car, now the rtv is leaking in my LIM. And I cleaned and whipped down everything, and even used "the right stuff" I got a small puddle of oil on the trans side of my block and a surging idle.


    Sent from my iPhone using my iPhone at work cuz I have nothing to do

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  • 3400-95-Modified
    replied
    Dave's dyno chart showed 270whp, but I'm not a fan of that dyno chart since it wasn't very smooth.

    I never had a goal, that's what makes it fun for me because everything is an accomplishment.

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  • bob442
    replied
    i'm not sure if i met my goal or not, the car is a blast to drive now, i'm odviously loosing alot of wheel power through the trans, and a higher stall tourqe converter would change alot of street performance, that and my massive wheels and tires. Did i hit my goal? did i make decent power? i cant even remember what Dave made in his car if it was 270 whp or crank.

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  • 3400-95-Modified
    replied
    was it an AVT 841 interface? If so it sounds like just the software is glitchy because that's what DHP used for hardware and I've never bricked an ECU... or at least never to the point where it couldn't be recovered with a quick full re-flash.

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  • robert 1980
    replied
    Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
    Waste credits on a dyno tune?
    I was very lucky to know jon.He saved me a ton of money on dyno tuning=) Hope you get closer to the numbers you wanted bob.Good Luck

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  • ForcedFirebird
    replied
    Waste credits on a dyno tune?

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