3.1L/3400 hybrid swap.

[caffeine]

Fasteddi I'm not convinced that the trigger wheel is the issue. I cut notches into the front of the crank pulley like you and I'm getting spark no problem... In fact the engine is running nicely albeit a bit rich.

[ForcedFirebird]

I find that hard to believe.

I am 100% sure. We have tons of Bavarian in the shop.

[fasteddi]

Well I went ahead and ordered that FWD kit from BBC. Looks like I can modifly a few things to get it to work nicely.... hopefully that issue was why i was having problems. Thanks for the tips guys. Ill update ya when I get the item and start to get it on the car. Not sure how long marc takes to ship stuff out but Im anxious to get the part and work on the car again.

BMW has always had the 60-2 wheel on the outside of the damper...

I find that hard to believe.

[ForcedFirebird]

*sigh*

"Harmonic balancer", Not "engine balancer"...

Just because TCE does it, does not make it a good idea. You will NEVER see anyone else do this, OEMs, or major aftermarket manufacturers.

Learn what an harmonic balancer is and how it works and then you might see why it's a bad idea and can cause unstable timing issues. I'll give you a hint: the outer ring moves differently than the the inner part of the harmonic balancer, and absorbs the shocks to the crankshaft that are created by each cylinder firing event. Ok, that was more than just a hint, but using notches on an harmonic balancer is a really bad idea. The other issue is the outer ring ever slips, which is not uncommon, the timing will then be off, causing the car to not even be able to limp home. With a proper trigger wheel the car can at least be driven home or to a repair shop.

BMW has always had the 60-2 wheel on the outside of the damper...

[Superdave]

this is how they come now, with the hub tack welded to the ring. It fits down in the pulley, lines up to the keyway and you get a longer bolt.



the RWD pulley is too deep to put the trigger in front, that's why i cut the center out of mine and just bolted it down.


Ideally a pulley with an integrated 7x ring on the back end could be made. Someone would have to talk Marc into that though.


mounting the sensor bracket is no problem, just use longer bolts and washers to shim it out.



The 3500's 7x internal ring is larger, I almost welded that to my pulley but decided not to. I gave it to the new owner in case he wanted to install it.

Is that how that trigger wheel gets aligned/retained?

That would be why I mentioned finding a way to keep the trigger wheel in position.

[caffeine]

But then it wouldn't have the balancer keyway to align with anymore. However it should work for a while at least.

It won't bolt on top of the crank pulley since the flange on the FWD trigger isn't deep enough. The best thing to do is probably what superdave did and sandwich it between the pulley and balancer.

On my 3500 the FWD trigger wheel was welded to the back of an ASP underdrive pulley

But a spacer could likely be used to support that middle part.

[caffeine]

It won't bolt on top of the crank pulley since the flange on the FWD trigger isn't deep enough. The best thing to do is probably what superdave did and sandwich it between the pulley and balancer.

On my 3500 the FWD trigger wheel was welded to the back of an ASP underdrive pulley

So this one here: http://www.britishcarconversions.com...category_id=28

Just sits in front of the crank pulley and uses the main bolt to hold it on? What i mean is that the belt alignment would not have to be changed from what i currently have? I would just shim it out so that it lines up nicely with the front of the crank pulley.

Sounds like this would be a good one for me. I could always figure out a way to hold it on there better then the one bolt but this will be the option I like the most and the one I get.

I almost got a harmonic/bal notched one back a few months ago but did not like the idea of it being on the outer ring either. Not something i want to have more problems with down the road.


Thanks a ton for all the help here!

Yes, keep in mind that is meant as a FWD kit, most commonly used with the 3500, so the bracket for the CPS will not work for you, and the trigger wheel itself may need some modification, but that is how I would set this particular trigger wheel up, in front of the crank pulley. I just don't want to give a false sense of a quick fix here. It may adapt really easy, but I am not going to guarantee it. I think it's very do-able though.

[fasteddi]

So this one here: http://www.britishcarconversions.com...category_id=28

Just sits in front of the crank pulley and uses the main bolt to hold it on? What i mean is that the belt alignment would not have to be changed from what i currently have? I would just shim it out so that it lines up nicely with the front of the crank pulley.

Sounds like this would be a good one for me. I could always figure out a way to hold it on there better then the one bolt but this will be the option I like the most and the one I get.

I almost got a harmonic/bal notched one back a few months ago but did not like the idea of it being on the outer ring either. Not something i want to have more problems with down the road.


Thanks a ton for all the help here!

[3400-95-Modified]

Oh wow, that's news to me, And I agree with your disapproval of it. I have the FWD kit, I assumed they would have been the same.

TCE, or at least I believe TCE is the supplier sells modified harmonic balancers/dampers/choose your name through British Car Conversions/Killer Bee V6. I still don't recommend this approach, due to the unstable trigger signal and the possible issues that could happen.

http://www.britishcarconversions.com/component/virtuemart/?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=136&category_id=28

[Superdave]

I think Marc was notching the RWD dampers at one point, I don't know if it was ever sold as a regular production part though.


There was someone on TGO selling trigger wheels a few years ago, can't remember the username though.