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3.1L/3400 hybrid swap.
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Guest repliedUpdate?
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Took it to AZ they tested it 2 times failed everything with flying colors.... red!
Hopefully this did not ruin my sensor or ecm, although the ecm still works fine from what i c
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I know it's a pain to do, but unplug your ECM and check the wiring between the ICM and ECM. Also check for +12V on the 4 wires at the ECM. AFAIK, without looking in the service manual, there shouldn't be 12V in any of the wires. Except the TACH wire when the ignition is on and it's plugged into the ICM (transporting output to ground). Should be 5V in at least 2 of them (the BYPASS wire I know for sure unless the ignition is in CRANK).
2 of the ICM CKP pins should be GROUND. One for the sensor (purple wire) and the other for the shielding wire that was in the CKP harness in select vehicles (supposed to help prevent EMI).
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Hope to hit a yard on sunday morning but while i was out in the garage yesterday i went to recheck some test points.
Is it normal for the 3 prong CPS connection to be 12Vdc+??? Seemed weird but its + on both terminals on the ICM. I checked it 10 times over. Also when I hook up the ecm harness to the icm if the car ignition is already on, i can then hear the pump prime as soon as i plug it in.
Also on the 6 pin connector, all the pins show 12vdc+ except the blank on in the middle, this really concerns me.Last edited by fasteddi; 04-11-2014, 04:36 PM.
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I dont have a oscilloscope. I wish i did though. I know it would really come in handy for things such as this.
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Guest repliedYes, using the original ignition wire and a dedicated ground connection is fine. Grounding the tach wire will not cause an issue, as long as it's just for the tach (which it should be).
I would try replacing the ICM at this point and see how that goes.
If you could take some detail pictures of the ignition system, I might be able to spot something if there is something out out pf place, but at this point I would do as you propose and replace the ICM, then go from there.
Do you have access to an oscilloscope?
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Well only had a few minuets to look over the wiring and here's the numbers i have. less then .5 Ohm from bat to driver head, bat to block, bat to pass head. Same for both heads to chassis and the battery to chassis. I check a few time on each and they all looked good. I even checked from the plug harness on the coil to the head, block, chassis, and battery.
On a stock thirdgen camaro there is a red/pink wire and a white wire going to the coil. Currently I only used the red for the +12 and then used a ground that I ran myself for the - since the white wire that was there was for the tach output. There is nothing wrong with using that method is there? Although I will add I was a idiot when i first tried to fire the car and had that tach wire(white) connected as the ground. I know that is wrong now but it is what it is. That may be the reason why its giving me issues.
Hopefully i can get out to a j yard and find a few icms and see if that icm is dead either because i toasted it or it went bad for some other reason.
Thoughts??? Thanks again!
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Guest repliedJust for reference, the 2nd ICM that I believe might be bad, had the same pattern (only 1 terminal per coil with 12V), until I got to the third coil, nearest the CPS plug, and that had 12V on both. The only connection I had to this ICM was the power plug FWIW. I didn't try swapping it in place of the one that is on the car and working to verify functionality. It was just a spare I had in my cabinet, to use for testing. It was because I found the one coil to have 12V on both terminals that I decided to actually remove the coils from the ICM in the car.
So you are zeroing in on the problem now.
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I appreciate the help!! Big time!! I will go over the grounds on the car asap and hopefully it didnt ruin the icm either.
I only took off the first coil pack but it was definitly + +
At least i finally found something that is wrong insted of just chaseing my tail even though a ground loss can make me do the same....lol
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Guest repliedI just tested the ICM on my car, tested two actually, and I think one might be bad now. lol.
Anyway, you should be getting 12V on only one terminal per coil. Oddly (and I discovered this back when I was testing a COP set-up), one of the coils has the 12V pin opposite the other two.
So the pattern is this:
(12V and ground plug) + - - + - + (CPS plug).
So if you are getting 12V on both terminals for each coil, you have one of a couple things happening:
A) your ground is not good, either from the coil to the engine block, or from the engine block to the battery/chassis.
B) your ICM is shot.
Hopefully if it is a poor ground it hasn't damaged the ICM.
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Guest repliedNo, there should be 12V at only one terminal (per coil) IIRC, that is with all off the coils removed. You may get 12V on both terminals if you remove only one coil at a time.
A screw it, I'll go and test on my car. I'll post results in a bit.
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I worked on it for 2 more hrs. No luck. I measured the notches and a fellow hybrid guy said 1/4 inch wide and 3/16 deep worked. I widened mine up and they look more like yours now at the 1/4 sync notch but still no luck. Im at my witts end.
I datalogged and no reference also.
Thinking that this hybrid idea was a bad one. Ive spent a good 10 hrs just trying to get it to spark.
When measuring the coil terminals is there suppose to be 12vdc at both terminals If i took off the coil pack itself? Just wanted to make sure that is normal.
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