3.1L/3400 hybrid swap.

[fasteddi]

I had good feeling that it wasent even going to be close. Ill have to work on it sunday and hopefully figure out what will work. Those pics help. Thanks.

[Superdave]

Stock TV cable isn't going to work for sure with that cable bracket. I don't know of one that's long enough.


I used a LS1 75mm TB on mine which was set up to pull to the rear, even then i had to make a custom bracket for the throttle and TV cable to work. I also had to make my own arm and weld it to the TB to get the correct pull on the TV cable, then use parts from a throttle cable kit. Was a pain in the ass.. lol

[fasteddi]

Thanks

I ported/polished the heads and also deshrouded them the best I could.

[1QUICKHATCH]

looks good! did you have any work done on the iron heads to get in the 12's? It shoud be moving this year!

[caffeine]

3.1L/3400 hybrid swap.

Nice!

I would PM Superdave regarding the 700r4 TV cable setup since he's the only one I can think of that's done it.

[fasteddi]

Updates. I got a throttle cable, works good, almost too long like you guys said but the pull is nice and smooth from in the car.

Got a radiator over the weekend that has the correct in and out positions and mounted that and the external trans cooler.

I hooked up the fuel lines and checked for leaks while the fuel pump was primed. No leaks and held good pressure. I also checked to make sure each one of the sensors i extended worked on tunerpro and they do.

Im still unsure if the tv cable will reach or not. Tad cold out to crawl under the car for that task over the past weekend. I have a nice big garage but its got a stone floor and is uninsulated... Anyone run a 7004 with this set up and have any insite on what i may run into?

Heres my list of things to do still:
Finish the merge pipe and weld in the wastegate flange
Notch my reluctor wheel/mount the cps
Hook up the vac lines and block off the egr.
Get the alt mounted and make a bracket for it so that it can be adjusted to the proper tention.
Toss the trans and hopefully that cable will fit.
And also tap that hole next to the T stat housing for my single wire coolent sensor for my stock guage. For some reason I dont have a 1/2 inch tap. Have the bushing though.... Just my luck.

[fasteddi]

I will recheck the fuel pressure as I do have a afpr with a reliable gauge. I used it before but once I realized that the stock FPR on the 3.1L worked correctly and rose with boost and my injector well in check at 43.5psi base, I took the AFPR off just to keep the clutter down in the engine bay.

Ok im going junk yard hunting this sunday and I plan to look for a different radiator and it that doesn't happen then Ill just have to buy a new one with the inlet on the pass side.

Ill look for T cables from a intrigue/grand am and such, ill measure them to make sure they are long enough. One thing I haven't looked at and need to is the length of my TV cable. I think it should be long enough but I do need to double check that.

[robertisaar]

When I had my truck on the dyno I had a friend watch the fuel pressure (perma-mounted gauge on the rail), and he informed me that the fuel pressure rose with boost pressure.

not surprising. a spring loaded diaphragm operating correctly SHOULD raise fuel pressure at a 1:1 ratio with boost until the spring starts acting funny due to extending too far and fuel pressure failing to rise any further(or raising too slow in reference to manifold pressure).

[caffeine]

I think I got mine from an Oldsmobile intrigue

[ForcedFirebird]

The 3.4 DOHC GP cable is also very long. Used it in a Camaro and like Raven said, was almost too long.

I used a stock 3100 FPR on my Franken60 years ago, successfully. When I had my truck on the dyno I had a friend watch the fuel pressure (perma-mounted gauge on the rail), and he informed me that the fuel pressure rose with boost pressure. I initially used an MSD FPR, but found the stock FPR worked better. I did modify it to be adjustable, but ended up putting it right back to 44.5 PSIG base pressure anyway.

As far as coolant system and sensors go. I tapped the hole in the thermostat housing that originally was the heater core return in the transverse application, for 1/2" NPT, then used a 1/2" to 3/8" NPT bushing for the CTS. I then returned the heater core to tube that runs under the intake. I did this mostly because it made the heater core hoses really short, since that tube ends up near the heater core itself.

I used the original throttle cable for an S-10 in my truck, but had to swap throttle body arms with one from a TBI S-10 and made my own throttle cable bracket. I went a better way in my Datsun (using a 3400 throttle body), where I was able to use a stock throttle cable bracket because I used a mid '90s Buick throttle cable. I don't recall the exact model, but the cable is quite long and works well in longitudinally mounted situations. It's almost too long for my straight 6 engine in my Datsun.

You can see the throttle cable in the following picture, it exits the firewall, passes between the two reservoirs on the master cylinder runs along the fender and then turns back into the throttle body, using a standard car throttle cable bracket. It will work equally as well with a 660 mounted longitudinally. Pedal feel is nice, I'm also using a progressive throttle cam, which makes driving nice.

[Maverick H1L]

FYI, my throttle cable is from a mid-90s Grand Am. Cavaliers of the same years also seem to have a throttle cable that will work, but I couldn't get that cable out of the car (broke it trying to get it out of the firewall ). You will need to modify the cable bracket a bit to get the cable end to mount to the throttle lever on the throttle body (the end is different).

:edit: Also, get rid of the stock 3x00 FPR and fuel line fittings. You're going to need to get the 6AN fittings from TCE and you will definitely want an adjustable FPR for the boost. I have my FPR mounted to the firewall behind the engine, about where the factory distributor was. My fuel rail is also oriented with the fuel hose fittings at the back of the engine (which makes getting a gauge on the pressure port pretty difficult without a 90* fitting due to the TB mounting ears).

You can use the factory fuel injector harness provided you point the injectors with the connectors towards the middle of the engine. The harness will just barely make it, and you can use the factory retainer on the front fuel rail bolt to hold the harness in place.

I strongly recommend running the wire for the coolant temp gauge with the CTS wires and running a 3-wire late model CTS. What I did was to get a 3/8 NPT plug for the factory 3x00 CTS mount by the pass side valve cover, remove the coolant pipe for the heater core, and tapping the remaining hole in the intake (under the TB neck) for the CTS.

[fasteddi]

Some updated pics.

Build is going well. I still need to get a different throttle cable and get the radiator situated with a 2.8L fobody one for the intake of the rad on the pass side. But else then that its just alot of little things that im working on.

Still aiming to get this puppy going by april/early may.

[fasteddi]

Made some progress fitting up some of the pipe so I can make up the drivers header.

[Superdave]

Yep, chop it off then you'll have to grind it down a little bit more to make sure you have enough clearance for the intake to seat when you torque it down.