3.1L/3400 hybrid swap.

I'll have to get you some measurements later.

[fasteddi]

Hopefully tonight after work i get time to work on the car.

The notches are placed right but are about 3/16th wide. Mabey that is my issue. I see that the sensor sees the notches as its pulses from .3 Vts AC to .8xx ish but mabey the durration is not enough between them. I can widen them up. I do see that yours look wider them mine by quite a bit. How wide are yours? 1/4, 5/16"?

I have tried it without the 6 plug connector and still no go. No reference to the ecm either when the plug is connected.

Have you tried checking for spark with the 6 pin connector unplugged?

If there is a wiring issue in this harness, it's possible that the "advance" and dwell is being pulled low and not allowing spark to happen.

Check for spark with only the power and CPS connectors attached. If you get spark then (which you should), then your problem is in your wiring between the ICM and the ECM.

I still don't like the way your trigger wheel looks. The gap between the 1/4 notch and the sync notch looks too wide to me, or that the notches are not wide enough. If the CPS/ICM doesn't get enough time between edges, it will not see the notches, and therefore will not create a spark event.

For reference, this is what my wheel looks like on my Datsun (also used it on my Franken60 12 or so years ago, holy Sh*t that's been a long time).

[fasteddi]

Ok I plan to work on it tommorow after work for a few minuets. I dont recall seeing a RPM on the datalogg or anything resembling that the ICM was talking to the ecm. But i cant say for certain. I will make sure to look at all those thigns tommorow. Its mind boggling and truly is making me go nuts. Ill see if AZ can test it and if its shot look to get a used on. I figured the ICM was outragously priced.

[Superdave]

AZ can test it, have them run it at least twice so it gets nice and warm.


Have you tried to datalog the ECM to see if it's reporting RPM during cranking? That will tell you real quick if the ICM is passing the ref pulse to the ECM.

[Maverick H1L]

IDK for sure if AZ can test it. Don't even bother asking them how much for a replacement module. Unless you want to pay as much for it as you did your turbocharger . IDK why they're so ridiculously priced...

[fasteddi]

I have 12+ at terminal B and just went to make sure of it. A is the ground.

I dont have another car to check with the icm but i will see if AZ will test it and see if its ok.

[Maverick H1L]

Well, first off, the rule: "No spark, No squirt". If there isn't any spark, it's a good bet your ECM isn't seeing any reference pulses, so it won't pulse the injectors.

Your wheel looks okay to me, provided it's timed right in relation to the #1/4 pistons.

The sensor is good... I seem to remember getting numbers somewhere like that when I was having my issues. And the gap is good as well, about the same as mine.

Just to be sure, terminal B in the 2-pin connector should be your 12V source.

Pull the ignition module and make 100% sure it works on the other car. If not, I have a spare I can send.

[fasteddi]

Still no spark or injector pulse!


Ok pics of the reluc wheel are attatched and Im using a 7x sensor off a 3.4L fbody.

The wheel is set so that it has 10* base timing and the sensor is ligned up to the trailing edge of the 1/4 notch with the stock timing mark showing 10*btdc on cyl 1.

The sync notch 10 degrees after the 1/4 notch.

Max advance of 0*
refernce angle of 70*
max retard of -60 all set in the bin.

Wiring is this as I've literly spent 3-4 hrs rechecking and rechecking and i think im starting to go nuts... I just want it to fire.

CPS is purple and yellow. (I also tried to reverse them and still no spark)

The 2 plug is termial A system/chassis ground and B is the 12vts+ Pink is hot.

The 6 plug is: All matching colors but there is no tach output on the dis plug as the car it was on did not have a tach. So i didn't splice that in yet. My tach wire is just taped up and sitting right now.

I messed with the position of the sensor some more and I constantly get the same .3xx to .8xx volt ac varriation as the sensor sees the notches come and go. I also ohmed out the sensor and get arround 900 ohms which i believe is normal even though the sensor is new i wanted to make sure it checked out ok.

The cps sensor is about 1 or 2 playing cards away from the wheel so it is very close. Mabey too close?

Is there anything else im missing? Could the module be bad? It was good on the impala last time it ran.

I tried just tapping the sensor on metal constantly with a rythem but still no spark. I tried it without the ecm attached and still nothing, not a hint of spark. I tried alot of things today and failed so im a tad bummed out. But hopefully i can get it going soon.

[Maverick H1L]

Did you connect the purple REF HI wire to the purple wire at the distributor harness connector? If not, that is why you have a problem.

Wiring should be:
RED/BLK to BLK/RED
WHT to WHT (EST wire)
WHT to WHT (TACH wire, comes from original ignition coil wire harness connector, same as PNK power wire)
PPL/WHT to PPL/WHT
TAN/BLK to TAN/BLK

Make sure you have the white wires connected correctly. One is the EST wire and the other one is the TACH wire. The one in B is the EST wire.

Are you absolutely positive you have cut the notches for your timing wheel correctly? If you recall, that was the problem that left me scratching my head for 4 months last year.

[fasteddi]

Ok heres where im at as I tried to start up the car today.

No fuel or spark!!


For the ignition module. I have:

The 2 wire connector +12vdc on a pink on and ground on the black. With the key on. This ground is shared with the cars/engine ground at least on a meter.

The CPS sensor seems to be recognizing a signal and producing Ac current. From .3ish volts to a bit over 1 vts

My 6 wire connector I have the red and black (f) ground also but this ground is not with the engine ground. Ecm ground I would guess.
White is the ecm control
tan and black is the 5 vt reference
Purple is fuel control
Tan is the 5vts above 400 rpm

Any help fells as it seems like my ignition module is either bad (but worked on my impala) Or i killed it from wiring it wrong??

Running code 59. All i changed was the ref spark, the max advance and max retard. Set the base to 10* ish base timing.

[fasteddi]

Actually the TV is close. Its arround 35 inches in sheath length.

I see two options:

Look for a Quad4 TV/throttle cable cam system that some of the 660 swappers use in the J-body.

OR

Swap to a 4L60E, and get rid of the TV cable, can be run off a 16197427 PCM from mid '90s GM trucks.

[caffeine]

3.1L/3400 hybrid swap.

If something from a FWD app will work, a Fiero cable is probably very long.

Edit: or maybe I'm thinking of the shift cable

[Superdave]

The longest stock RWD one i can think of would be one from a 350 TPI, maybe something from a FWD trans like the TH125 or 440T4 would work?


this page will help a lot if you have to go custom: http://www.cpttransmission.com/tech_tvcable.htm

the diagrams linked there are very important.


*edit

Here are some 60" long cables, not cheap but i'd imagine them to be plenty long.. lol

http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/automatic-transmission-kickdown-cables/transmission-make/gm/transmission-type/700r4/cable-length-in/60-000-in?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending