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1999 OLDS ALERO 3500 swap

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  • IsaacHayes
    replied
    http://wot-tech.com/shop/3500-gm-v6-.../prod_134.html

    Lighter, less weight on the valvetrain was the idea. If the heads have
    to come off anyway why not put on lighter parts?

    At least my understanding is a lighter valvetrain is more efficient and those
    valves are stock replacements that are lighter.
    "Stock replacement valves for the 3500 engine."
    Those are stock 3500 valves... They are lighter than 3100/3400 valves. But if you have a 3500, then they are the same.....

    If your cam won't work with the 86 springs then it wont... Best to ask Ben.

    Leave a comment:


  • nixtux
    replied
    Fair enough, thanks. So just do the Comp Cams 26986 Valve Springs and
    use the stock parts. Can't go wrong, a little extra cash for other things.

    The recommended was the 26915 but I'm not an expert with this stuff so
    just want to be extra safe so I don't get stuck on the side of the road
    again.

    Originally posted by asylummotorsports View Post
    Waste of money if you don't need them.

    Leave a comment:


  • asylummotorsports
    replied
    Waste of money if you don't need them.

    Leave a comment:


  • nixtux
    replied


    Lighter, less weight on the valvetrain was the idea. If the heads have
    to come off anyway why not put on lighter parts?

    At least my understanding is a lighter valvetrain is more efficient and those
    valves are stock replacements that are lighter.

    Originally posted by IsaacHayes View Post
    Youre putting 3500 valves in a 3500? I don't get it.

    Leave a comment:


  • IsaacHayes
    replied
    Youre putting 3500 valves in a 3500? I don't get it.

    Leave a comment:


  • SilverGAGT2002
    replied
    I have a few parts that might interest you up for sale im willing to pay shipping if you pay my asking price listed on the thread.


    Leave a comment:


  • nixtux
    replied
    I figured change out the valves since they are lighter and it's easier to do when it's not in the car. In the process port and polish the heads.

    I guess I can skip that step to get things moving. Do a more aggressive build over the winter. Probably get a different car for it though.

    I've been considering the single roller timing chain. Once I finish this project I want to pickup a cradle and start a slow build doing a 4T65-E HD or a Getrag 282 and a 3500 and add a M62. Just some ideas at this point since I'm still researching what's needed and have to learn the tuning aspects before I consider anything new.

    Leave a comment:


  • asylummotorsports
    replied
    I would rather see you use the Comp 28986 springs and be done with it.

    They don't require anything else. Uses all the stock stuff and they are just fine to .600 lift.

    And you're likely best springing for the custom pushrods.

    And join the slowly emerging group buy for the single roller timing chain.

    Why are you buying valves?
    Last edited by asylummotorsports; 11-04-2009, 03:58 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • nixtux
    replied
    Going to get the below on Saturday from the wot-tech store. Hoping to
    verify that it's the proper parts for the cam.

    260, 206, 0.533, 3118

    Comp 26915 Valve Springs
    LS1 Valve Spring Seats .553" OD
    Valve Stem Seals for LS1 Seats
    3500 V6 Valves (LX9)

    I'm also thinking about polishing the upper intake and maybe the timing
    cover. Also what's good for engine painting? There is a lot of options
    but some seems to suck so it's been difficult making a informed decision.

    A friend recommended



    Thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • nixtux
    replied
    Comp 26915 springs recommended with LS1 seats and either 1992 2.2 or
    1992 2 3.1 valve stem seals, depending on the year of the cylinder heads

    Stupid question, doing the seats would require the heads to be pulled?
    Do the seats need to be done? And if so, what value stem seals do I need
    to get? And would the head gasket kit from the wot-tech store be the ideal
    gasket set for head and intake?

    And assuming the heads come off, might as well port and polish ect. What
    other pieces should be replaced, if any?

    Thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • asylummotorsports
    replied
    You should always get the valve springs recommended for the specific camshaft. Eliminates all sort of potential problems like coil bind and valve float.

    However you do not need to remove the valve springs to change pushrods. Just loosen the rocker arms so you can pull them out.

    Leave a comment:


  • lastryghts
    replied
    S&S ships the same day if they have them in stock otherwise it is a day or two. Don't have S&S do the coating on the headers. I had to wait a month for a replacement rear header that they had in stock because of delays at the company that does there coating.

    Leave a comment:


  • nixtux
    replied
    What gaskets should I get to replace the old when doing the cam/pushrods?

    What benefit is there for changing the valve springs? In the cam list, the
    recommended springs are Comp 26915. Is there any modifications
    needed to replace them and is it worth it? I believe the springs come off
    to change the pushrods, but I'm not sure since I've never tore into one of
    these motors. But that's why the work is being done at a shop.

    I see it needs new seats but otherwise it should be a drop in? The only
    real question is, does it really provide any benefit.

    CAI, I did some searching and but wasn't sure which to get. Some are
    inexpensive while some were obscenely priced, so I'd welcome a suggestion.

    Leave a comment:


  • onefastV6
    replied
    Ok good it is out of a 05 GT, for a second it looked like one of the newer transmissions that have a different side pan and different valve body for the tap shift.

    Tranny looks clean, should be rewarding once it is done.

    Leave a comment:


  • nixtux
    replied
    Here is another shot from a slightly different angle.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:

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