Six_Shooter's money pit and time vampire... v.240Z

[Purple pit]

Not the best, but it's all I have. No I did not do it. The Eco guys were swapping larger intakes(using their smaller TB) and a flat adapter. Kept telling them they were hurting the flow. Showed them that and it didn't change anything. Just got to laugh I guess.

Very refreshing to hear someone speak of it after it fell on so many deaf ears.

Use to have a great video with the air/smoke in motion at different speeds on the same model. Talk about loss of throttle response.

No, the flange of the 3500 intake is already about 5 to 7 mm forward in comparison, and then adding an adapter plate would be another 8 mm minimum more forward (and move it more to the side, due to the angle). With the intake tubing I have, this would not fit well, if at all. This would also create a lot of turbulence at the transition from the adapter plate to inlet neck, that would require some creative additions to the adapter plate to reduce them. While the transition won't be ideal here, it will be much better than a simple adapter plate.

[ForcedFirebird]

Good idea about welding the neck on for comparisons, but wouldn't an adapter plate function just as well?

So I've done a few things to the car...

I put my Liar Temp gauge back in the car, I call it the Liar, because it would always be about 10 degrees off what the ECM reported, but so far it seems to be less of a liar than the CTS that I just put in, which I am using the head location, where the temperature fluctuates a LOT and is always higher than than the thermostat location, where the Liar gauge probe is. BTW, the Liar gauge is an Autometer Sport Comp mechanical, 2 5/8". I think I will be going back to the other CTS I was using in a different spot.

I finally checked the base timing, 8 degrees dead on, which is 2 degrees less than it should be, but I can live with that. The car seems to like it, and with the mild tuning I've done, I don't think I'll worry about adding those extra 2 degrees of base timing.

Also, what the heck is going on here?



Wait, wut?


Yep, that's what is happening...






I still need to blend the inside, and add a few fittings to the intake, but this way I'll be able to literally slip it in place of the LA1 upper without modifying anything else. I could also do a an A-B comparison (dyno/track) very easily this way, looking at just the effects of the change in runner length and plenum volume, taking the throttle body out of the equation.

There was the annual "Remember When" Cruise this past Saturday where there were a couple photos of my car taken by the guy that runs Lug Nuts magazine, he posted them to the Lug Nuts Facebook page.

https://www.facebook.com/lugnutsmagazine/posts/291333111037356

I've been driving the car for a couple days now, well since Thursday night.

I had a new pair of Falken RK615K tires put on the back on Friday, since the old back tires were bald... no idea why, probably just a bad pair... lol

The front tires were still good, so I want to run them out for at least another season, also Falkens, but FK452s, which are not made anymore.

I was able to test the wet weather traction of the RT615Ks this afternoon, and I'm pleasantly impressed. I can still easily overpower the traction, but far better than what I was expecting. The FK452s still shed water better than the RT615Ks, but I'm not white knuckling it in the wet like I was a couple of times with the worn out FK452s. lol The dry traction is very good, and seems to hook much harder than the FK425s ever did. It seems to take about 3 blocks of driving for them to get enough heat in them to bite, before that, they are pretty slick, but that's a relatively short distance to get hot enough.

The exhaust note seems to have mellowed out quite a bit, much closer to the sound I really want out of this car. There was a pin hole leak in one header where the primaries and collector attached, I wrapped the headers and Y-pipe and retarded the base timing by about 10 degrees or so, based on where I moved the pick up, I haven't actually measured/set base timing yet. I hope to do that tomorrow night.

This is a short video of the first start, Thursday night. The clacking is the valve train that needed to get some oil into the lifters and got quiet a few minutes later.

Well as of about 9:30 Thursday night, the LX9 240Z lives again.

I'm not a fan of the repair sleeves, I bought a couple balancers today, both are better than what I have, so I'll run one of them. I had each one out in about 5 minutes. Both from 3.4 Firebirds, go figure, I couldn't find a gen1 3.4 back in teh day when I would have built one (with FWD top end), and now I can find them almost all day long.

[ForcedFirebird]

Yup. Redi-sleeve. For parts with a groove worn in them, I have also had success in taking the spring out of the seal, "unscrewing" the last link, chopping a few coils off, then reinstall spring.

don't waste your time going to the junkyard for a new harmonic balancer. you can buy a sleeve for it from autozone or what not for a few bucks. I have used them with great success. It will save you a lot of time.

http://65corvette.nonethewiser.net/monthly_journals/Spring_Summer04/4-16-04-011.JPG

Obligatory "I have head studs"picture:


With the addition of the main studs I needed to modify the windage tray. I decided to just raise the area that interfered with the oil pan, as opposed to modifying all of the mounting points, which I did consider, but this was easier and I don't think it will have any appreciable drawbacks over other ways.




I made a new engine strut since my last one broke away at one of the anchor points. I had always planned to go to a urethane mounted strut, just wasn't planning on doing it now, but no time like when the engine is coming out anyway.




Just a shot of the coolant bypass that I installed, this is a better picture than I had previous.


I hope to have the new long block installed tomorrow... Today...? It is early in the morning here as I type this. lol

I need to get another harmonic damper since I realized last night that mine has a groove worn into it that would explain the seeping of oil at the front main. The local wreckers has one that I will pull from a 3.4 in the morning.

I also have the old short block ready to pull, with only one trans bolt left in it. If I had more space in the garage it would have already been out, but I don't really have space to have a second engine sit right now.

[GinoBeats]

Doing good, keeping busy, still got the Z Pm me your #, I'm not sure if the one I have is still good

Holy crap, it's Ginobeats!!!?

How's it been man?

Yes, been sorta busy. lol

[GinoBeats]

Looks like you've been busy

Crank and cam are in, rings gapped, and block painted.

I should be able to get the short block done tomorrow.