Six_Shooter's money pit and time vampire... v.240Z

[robertisaar]

I might, just for the time being pull out the RFD chips and just use resistors to set the firing scheme and see if that cuts the engine when LHM is enabled.

that should certainly do it. I can't think of them doing anything to normal operation outside of the hardware cylinder select.

http://www.thirdgen.org/forums/dfi-e...d-memcals.html

that thread sparked my investigation of it and I had it figured out, but I can't find my notes on it... a look at the Ludis diagram for the 7730/27/49 (sheet 7) makes me think CAL42(which appears to be an oscillator signal to the RFD) was where I started.

Haha, I posted in that thread...

Anyway, it's interesting that you pulled the idea of disabling LHM with a switch from that thread, now that I read it with that in mind, I can see where the idea might have come from.

Also I have jwscab's home made AUJP MEMCALs. Neat little pieces that I plan to one day get back to testing with. Now that school is done, I might be able to get my new bench set-up and do some real testing on it.

I might, just for the time being pull out the RFD chips and just use resistors to set the firing scheme and see if that cuts the engine when LHM is enabled.

Another thing I was thinking about the other day was the Ostrich and whether that could be causing a problem for me here. I'm still going to swap out the ECM, since I do suspect there's an issue, but I may just burn an EEPROM and see how that works out as well. This car has only ever seen the use of an Ostrich over the 6+ years it's been injected. There in that tie there's be at least 2 different Ostriches used at one point or another.

It begins...

Damn, I missed those... Nice work!

I thought you'd like those.

I dropped my block, crank and heads off to the machine shop this week.

The block had some rusty cylinders since it's sat open for a few years, the crank was similar, some rusty journals.

I picked up the crank tonight after polishing, the block has been honed and looks good, but needs to take a swim before I can pick it up. I should be able to pick up the block at least tomorrow night, I hope the heads will be ready as well. I plan to try to get the short block together this weekend.

[Superdave]

Dave, go back a page, we posted at the same time, and there's carnage pictures, I think you'll be impressed.

Damn, I missed those... Nice work!

[robertisaar]

http://www.thirdgen.org/forums/dfi-ecm/622717-remanufactured-memcals.html

that thread sparked my investigation of it and I had it figured out, but I can't find my notes on it... a look at the Ludis diagram for the 7730/27/49 (sheet 7) makes me think CAL42(which appears to be an oscillator signal to the RFD) was where I started.

if it was LHM that did it in.... I believe it is only one connection on the MEMCAL to disable it. perhaps break it out to a small switch(probably still inside the ECM, depending on accessibility?) and leave it in an open position, that way if it does attempt to go into LHM again, the engine will shut down instead and require some driver interaction to limp it home rather than opening the engine up again.

[robertisaar]

if it was LHM that did it in.... I believe it is only one connection on the MEMCAL to disable it. perhaps break it out to a small switch(probably still inside the ECM, depending on accessibility?) and leave it in an open position, that way if it does attempt to go into LHM again, the engine will shut down instead and require some driver interaction to limp it home rather than opening the engine up again.

I've decided I'm going to put my other short block together. That way I can open the ring gap a bit and not have to worry about it.

I'll use these heads though, since they are together, and have the upgraded springs on them. I may, if the ambition train comes into the station, do some mild port matching, and anything else I can think of.

I pulled the other head and other than a couple slightly oblong rings on the gasket, it looks good. Inspection of the gaskets shows that the coolant was never serviced in the vehicle the engine came from, since there's some erosion of the gasket material around some of the steam holes.

No, I wasn't datalogging at the time, just playing around.

I have the short block just about ready to pull. The main starter feed wire to disconnect, the trans to adapter plate bolts and the front mount to undo.

I then need to build a better engine strut, it seems that I broke the one I had, luckily the engine was torquing against it when under power. lol

[34blazer]

Ooops, one too many knock-knock jokes for those head gaskets.

I'd fix the head gaskets and continue to drive all the bugs out of it before building another engine. Have a datalog just before the ECM went into LHM?

I think for now I'm just going to go with the graphite gaskets until I can find a source for the MLS gaskets, that won't be ridiculously priced.

That's my concern too with using the LZx gaskets, getting too much of a gap for carbon to build up and cause problems anyway.

Dave, go back a page, we posted at the same time, and there's carnage pictures, I think you'll be impressed.

CARNAGE!!!!

So I pulled the head off today, and found this:


A little closer:


I should have seen this before I pulled the head... LMAO!!


This explains why I was smelling burning oil. Not sure why I was smelling coolant though. There does look to be some VERY small paths for coolant between the nearest steam holes and the break, that maybe allowed some coolant to get into the cylinder.

I haven't pulled the other head yet, but will likely do that in a few minutes

Now I have to decide, do I put my other short block together, just so that I can open up the ring gaps a little, or roll the dice and just put gaskets on this one?

I think I might frame this one. lol

[Superdave]

I'd just go MLS with copper spray, the ones for a 3400 should work but i'd double check the bore size.

I had 3.4 iron head gaskets on my 3500, bore size was just slightly larger than 3.7"

too large of a headgasket bore = carbon buildup and preignition. 3.9" is pretty big.

I haven't heard of the LZx being bad for head gasket leaks. If the MLS gasket is coated properly prior to installation, it will seal up fine. I ran one on my L28 for a couple years without issue.

Yes, the bores have been shifted slightly, but the over sized bore opening should be able to deal with that. I just don't want to spend the $35 per gasket to find out that they definitely won't work, so I want to see why no one so far has done it, other than just looking at some physical differences between the two engines.

[caffeine]

Also, IIRC the bore spacing is a little off too isn't it?