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How to beat a 3.4??

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  • #31
    Originally posted by Stoney
    Sweet so if matt does do the 70mm i'll beat him cuz he'll be really slow and taking off and i'll dust him and he won't catch me by the time we get to the end! PRAYING!
    And then 25mph after the launch his engine starts to breathe in mass amoutns of air, and closes the distance harder than before the 70mm.

    I have driven a 3800SC, 3800, 3400, 3.1, 2.8 Carb and FI, 3.1 turbo, 4.3, and 4.3 turbo. Not one of them an auto 3.4 would beat off the line, except for the carbed 2.8. But the point is, a 70mm will hurt a pushrod low end A LOT, hell thats like 8mm more!, but since the 3.1 doesn't breathe near as much as the 3.4, it won't make any more high end with the TB. I'd recomend around 65 for a 3.1/3100.

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    • #32
      Originally posted by 4spdz34
      i will never understand why evryone says a 3.1 car will beat a 3.4 car in lowend. learn how to drive, u can't just smash the gas in your 3.4, u have to raise the rpms, brake torque it and let off the brake when u want to launch
      Exactly. Thats what I keep trying to tell Aaron when he says his car can't pull better than a 2.3 60' time. You just have to know how to drive it. A 3.4 should easily beat a N/A 3.1 off the line. With an auto brake torque it to 3k and go, it should get the engine closer to its torque curve. Remember, the 3.4 has a higher peak torque, so if you can get it close to the peak torque it will have an advantage. With a 5 speed, obviously rev to 3 or 4k and let out the clutch quickly (don't dump the clutch, that will probably just lead to the front tires going up in smoke). The engine will be at close to max torque and should take a 3.1 off the line. However, I would like to see the day when a forced induction 3.1 (supercharged or turbocharged) gets taken off the line by a 3.4.

      Shawn
      90 Grand Prix STE 3.1 Intercooled Turbo-3100 Hybrid
      K&N, Magnaflows, No Cat, Chip, FFP Pulley, H260 Cam, No EGR.
      99 Grand Prix GT
      K&N|No Cat/ubend/res|160 tstat|shift kit|UD ALT & WP Pulleys|XP Cam|Stage 2 I/C|Pacesetters|MPS|2.9"|Custom PCM
      12.665 @ 110.44 w/2.018 60', STREET TIRES, PUMP GAS!

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      • #33
        btw I drop my clutch from 2 and the tires smoke. My car is different. I'm making a bit more power than stock. MY CAR CAN'T DO BETTER THAN 2.3. Trust me. I ran it more times than anyone there! I doubled everyones runs but 1 kid in his Luinam LS. Look I think i know how to drive my car, I have run everything from my mid 14s to my high 16s.

        My car launches good when I get good pavement and get the perfect rpm. Every launch i do has different results. I raced a GTP a while back before my new motor, he had a pulley and intake. We were side by side form 0 to 120. I think staying right beside a 3.8 SC is pretty decent off the line.

        But I still find it funny that I can't drive it....I have raced that car more than most of the people on this board have theirs, I can drive the car. My shifts were perfect, I missed 1 out of 12 runs. Not bad.

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        • #34
          well it is going to be fun to race stoney. It just gives us something to do.

          and im gonna run up the rpms, have it in second gear, and let it rip.

          1st 04 GPG 88-96 mod car show
          L67 Swap, 3.25, XP'd, Custom Headers, 180 tstat, AL103's, 7" K+N, AFC2.2, Rat UDWP & Alt, Walbro,Taylor wires
          N* TB & HP Ported Blower
          PB-13.3@102mph
          http://www.SleeperSe.com
          http://wbodysource.com

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          • #35
            I think you can do better than 2.3. I have an iron head 3.4L in a truck that weighs 3245lbs. I have a Camaro cam which SUCKS for low end and I pulled off a 2.5 60 foot. And I gurentee I have the least amount of weight on my drive tires than anyone on this board. I have no bumper, no spare, no spare winch. I also have to launch very softley because I have terrible axle wrap and wheel hop if the tire breaks loose. They brake loose very easily. When my ladder bar goes in I should be able to get a MUCH better 60 foot. On my worst run (first run) of the night I got a .2 reaction but dropped the clutch so fast that the tires broke loose and it hopped so bad it fell out of first gear and I had to clutch it again and put it in first again and I still got a 3.074 60 foot. Lol that run resulted in an 18.380@81.82mph.

            My best run that night was 16.5@81.11mph with a .439 r/t.
            1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
            1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
            Because... I am, CANADIAN

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            • #36
              I'd say a 3400 with a 62-65mm TB and a 2.5 downpipe with the rest of the exhaust would work wonders...That would put the GEN 3 on similar ground as the TDC. The only thing that wouldn't be the same size is the exhaust manifolds/crossover. I'd say with at least those 2 things would give a 3400 an easy 200+ hp. Torque would be react as well. Contrary to popular belife, GEN3's like bigger TB's, and they do give results. Better yet with stiffer valve springs, you can get a just as high of a redline.

              A gen 1-2 can make power as well, though more stout in its ways and not like the gen 3. You gotta know how to mess with them. And I'll say the stock cam is not broad enough nor does it do too much power wise, but it does give plenty of response.


              Lets be frank here, the pushrod engines are choked before and after. Always has been....( Though they ususally get a decent set of heads.)

              Now the pushrod is getting a chance to breathe alittle. The 3500 with 200 hp at what high 5000 rpm range? 5800 rpm I belive. And the I belive its 220 torque at somewhere below 3000rpm I think, maybe 2500-2800 rpm? It's like a 3800 but it just revs higher and is light years lighter...Seems like a more livable power band than my rather peaky '93 TDCAuto stock.

              200hp@5000
              210tq@4000

              Not for nothing really, I feel the TDC kinda flat lines after 5000 and by 5600-6000 its dropping off. At least thats how it felt stock plus 3.73 gears. The chip helps to sustain a bit. Running at lower speeds is rather blah. Compared to a healthy GEN1 or GEN2 pushrod engine the TDC doesn't respond the same. Alittle more cam would be nice on the TDC. Oh and the TDC is very weather dependant. In the winter time its a pretty good engine, after 40 degrees its just depressing...Something they fixed on the GEN3s, they seem to always run the same every day....
              Lorenzo
              '11 DODGE Challenger R/ T Classic 57M6 Green with Envy "Giant Green Squid"
              '92 PONTIAC Grand Prix SE 34TDCM5 "Red Lobster"

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              • #37
                Crazy pushrod people ----

                If you want power just fix up a 91-93 Z or a GTP....

                1200-2900 can get you into a decent X'er with some repair.

                I can whoop any 3100 so as long as second gear slips in just right... any hesitation, misjudgement, or I just don't feel right for some reason I stop after 1st and cruise into second and forfeit. I am very carefull with my 5-speed, I purposly lose if it just don't feel right...Ever since I raced a GTP downtown when I ground into 3rd...Granted I did lose on several occasions to 3100's and 3.1's


                But just recently a had a fair race against a Monte Carlo LS...I was hardly even trying to stay a car length ahead of him....For some reason I shifted like a GOD that race and beat him off the line with no tire squeek!!!!and I got 255/50's...

                I played with a guy in a 2002 Mustang and lead him on and all this stuff while he talked shet about my car so I did the same and he was all revved up and readdy to go...Light turned and he bolted while I slipped easy into 1st and slowly went to cruise while he was laying rubber and cop saw him and pulled his ares over haha it was the screeching sound that drew his attention.
                I am back

                Mechanical/Service Technican

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                • #38
                  you mean, pay that price and it still needs repair????
                  Brian

                  '95 Cutlass Supreme- "The Rig"
                  3400 SFI V6, 4T60e
                  Comp Cam grind, LS6 valve springs, OBD2 swap, Tuned
                  2.5" DP/ 2.5" dual exh/ Magnaflow Cat/ crap mufflers/ 3500 Intake manifold/ 65mm TB
                  TGP steering Rack/ 34mm Sway Bar/Vert STB/ KYB GR2's

                  '08 Chevy Trailblazer SWB 1LT "Smart Package"- LH6 5.3L V8/4L60e, A4WD

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                  • #39
                    you mean, pay that price and it still needs repair????
                    Or pay 2500 dollars in mods and lose pfff

                    I paid 2450 for my GTP and at first all it needed was intake work, and the dreaded oil plug seal.

                    And a few perks I found were...Getrag remanufactured 284 in 1996/97, new carriers, ported heads were already done probabally not the best job, and a good clutch!!!!
                    I am back

                    Mechanical/Service Technican

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Lorenzo, your car is by far the worst sounding stock 3.4 DOHC auto I have ever heard of. I think your car is the absolute extreme inthe performance spectrum for the 3.4 DOHC. Drive that piece out here and ill show you what it should be doing
                      Ben
                      60DegreeV6.com
                      WOT-Tech.com

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Ok...this is not a DOHC vs Pushrod debate, its someone asking how to make their car compete with a DOHC. If you wanna bench race, go to off topic and bench race.
                        Ben
                        60DegreeV6.com
                        WOT-Tech.com

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Originally posted by Juglenaut
                          you mean, pay that price and it still needs repair????
                          Or pay 2500 dollars in mods and lose pfff

                          I paid 2450 for my GTP and at first all it needed was intake work, and the dreaded oil plug seal.
                          $2500 in mods? What?

                          I've been looking at cars in the $2-3k range that needs nothing. Hell my $300 POS just needed rear struts and a window remounted. I dunno if you realize it or not but twin cam equipped cars are just as worthless as any other w-body. The only cars keeping some value are the convertibles, God knows why...
                          Brian

                          '95 Cutlass Supreme- "The Rig"
                          3400 SFI V6, 4T60e
                          Comp Cam grind, LS6 valve springs, OBD2 swap, Tuned
                          2.5" DP/ 2.5" dual exh/ Magnaflow Cat/ crap mufflers/ 3500 Intake manifold/ 65mm TB
                          TGP steering Rack/ 34mm Sway Bar/Vert STB/ KYB GR2's

                          '08 Chevy Trailblazer SWB 1LT "Smart Package"- LH6 5.3L V8/4L60e, A4WD

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            You'er absolutely right...I never liked how it sounded either. But in it's defense it gteched a 15.4 @ 94 mph. That was winter. Summer it was 16.4 @86mph. I think it runs in the ballpark. All I have is a 160 stat, 3.73 gears and the FFP(Ben Ben) program.
                            Lorenzo
                            '11 DODGE Challenger R/ T Classic 57M6 Green with Envy "Giant Green Squid"
                            '92 PONTIAC Grand Prix SE 34TDCM5 "Red Lobster"

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              Whatever any car needs work in that range GL done with this topic...

                              I own 4 cars at this time and owned over 20 cars so far and everyone needed work in that range.
                              I am back

                              Mechanical/Service Technican

                              Comment


                              • #45
                                LOL, sure thing!
                                Brian

                                '95 Cutlass Supreme- "The Rig"
                                3400 SFI V6, 4T60e
                                Comp Cam grind, LS6 valve springs, OBD2 swap, Tuned
                                2.5" DP/ 2.5" dual exh/ Magnaflow Cat/ crap mufflers/ 3500 Intake manifold/ 65mm TB
                                TGP steering Rack/ 34mm Sway Bar/Vert STB/ KYB GR2's

                                '08 Chevy Trailblazer SWB 1LT "Smart Package"- LH6 5.3L V8/4L60e, A4WD

                                Comment

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