89 Firebird Turbo 3500 Build

[TGP37]

It's coming together well. I bet you can almost hear the thumpin idle in your head.

Looking great!

[Mars]

Nice !

[pocket-rocket]

Looks good, man. I like the black and blue theme. I like the shade of blue.

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

[caffeine]

Awesome!

Your motor mounts look familiar.. lol

Pass. side is mine, drivers side is 1/3 mine

[Superdave]

Awesome!

Your motor mounts look familiar.. lol

[ericjon262]

badass man!

[caffeine]

Made some real progress today!

Mounts done:



Downpipe (3.5")


Charge pipes:





Intercooler is just held in with tie-wire right now, but that will be mounted properly soon now that the charge pipes are finished. We removed the pass. side battery tray completely to make room for the charge pipe and I will make some bracing to weld back in to reinforce where the battery tray was. I went with the same-side intercooler so that I could route both pipes through the pass. side battery tray and leave one battery tray in-tact. It's pretty much the only spot there's a decent amount of room for charge pipes.

As long as I finish up the wiring I think this could be started up by next Tuesday!

[Driver_10]

Ill probably relocate the battery eventually, but right now I want to get the engine running. If I want the car to pass tech at a drag strip a rear-mounted battery would have to be mounted in a sealed box and other complications (they don't officially exempt sealed batteries from this rule, though for street class they usually let it slide at the local track as long as the battery is held down properly).

I've got a ton of safety stuff to do myself.

I have to build a safety bulkhead and cage for the fuel tank and fuel system before I finish the rear suspension. I just ordered a pipe bender for the roll-cage, which is NOT going to be an easy job considering the space constraints I already have in this car. (I stand 6'10 tall )

[caffeine]

Im moving my battery to the rear simply to deal with space constraints. I get the other benefits as a bonus.

Ill probably relocate the battery eventually, but right now I want to get the engine running. If I want the car to pass tech at a drag strip a rear-mounted battery would have to be mounted in a sealed box and other complications (they don't officially exempt sealed batteries from this rule, though for street class they usually let it slide at the local track as long as the battery is held down properly).

[caffeine]

Ill have to say, Im jealous of the space to be found under the hood of a third gen. I have 4th gen with a similar swap and had to cut my firewall to get the engine moved back. The crank damper now sits level with, and behind the axle level of the front wheels. You're not too far from that yourself.

Interesting. If I didn't care about keeping a stock-length driveshaft and using the T56-swap crossmember I already have, I could easily move the engine rearward at least an inch if not more. If I had a dry-sump system like you, I could lower the engine probably 2"+ and move it even farther back.

The way it is right now, I wanted to keep stock-length driveshaft and t56 crossmember for simplicity, plus I want my oil pan to sit higher than the k-member loop so I'm not dragging the oil pan on the ground lol.

[Driver_10]

Im moving my battery to the rear simply to deal with space constraints. I get the other benefits as a bonus.

[TGP37]

My FPR goes up to 75psi and my injectors and pump are supposed to be able to support that. I may need to run larger gauge wiring to the fuel pump though. We'll see what happens

Keeping voltage loss down over the distance of wire to the pump can only benefit the pump. Keeping voltage up keeps amps down, reducing heat in the pump motor.

My battery is in the trunk and I'm considering putting the fuel pump relay back there as well. So the path from battery to pump is really minimal. Only the signal wire is long, doesn't matter to much.

Just a thought

I use -6AN stainless braided fuel lines. They work well up to 400 hp so far so good.

[caffeine]

It should be good up to 450hp if you bump up the fuel pressure a bit from what ive seen. I would run -8 fuel line if you intend to go higher than that.

My FPR goes up to 75psi and my injectors and pump are supposed to be able to support that. I may need to run larger gauge wiring to the fuel pump though. We'll see what happens

[Driver_10]

I figure -6 is about the same size as the OEM fuel line so if I really do need a larger line I should go -8 all the way from the tank. I won't be running E85 either since its not available here or anywhere near here.

It should be good up to 450hp if you bump up the fuel pressure a bit from what ive seen. I would run -8 fuel line if you intend to go higher than that.

[caffeine]

Is this -6 fuel line? Its hard to tell looking a the pic. If so, You'd probably want a bit diameter to prevent a drop in fuel volume. Im running dual -6 lines and a single -6 return. Three hoses total.

I figure -6 is about the same size as the OEM fuel line so if I really do need a larger line I should go -8 all the way from the tank. I won't be running E85 either since its not available here or anywhere near here.