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89 Firebird Turbo 3500 Build
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Oh wow that paint looks like some of the dirty PS pumps that I have seen at the JY. Must have been the way the light caught it.
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Originally posted by caffeine View Post
I'd say this classifies as mid-engine
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It's just painted wrinkle black like most of the other parts. I used wrinkle paint on a bunch of stuff; I find its just more durable and requires less prep to look decent. I find regular paint on aluminum tends to flake easily when you're tightening down bolts.Last edited by caffeine; 01-08-2013, 09:35 PM.
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Well at least you know that the power steering pump will not rust! Poor old thing just doesn't go with everything else.
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Well December was really busy but I should have plenty of time in January to get this running!
I finished installing the valve springs, installed a Jeep steering shaft, got my clutch line figured out, and have been gradually putting the front-end back together. Ordered some gaskets, silicone vacuum lines, new front springs, rear end shims, downpipe flange, BOV flange, etc...
Picked up an Active Autowerke BOV for $80 local:
Jeep steering shaft:
JUST enough room to swap out the last spring without removing the wiper motor
And today I got the clutch line hooked up to the HTOB:
I wasn't actually sure it would work, but I thought I'd try it anyway; I cut off the end of the OEM LT1 clutch line (braided) and installed a Russell -4 PowerFlex hose end. I then used a -4 flare union to connect it to the HTOB line. I then bled the clutch and it worked! No leaks and clutch disengages fine!
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Haha I can see the quake logo too (but I had to look it up).
Got sick so there was some delays, but now the gas tank and rear end are back in finally and IMO the rear end is nicely lowered now.
Rear end probably needs centering now but I already have an adjustable panhard bar so I can do that later. Lower control arm relocation brackets also went in and they're pretty close to parallel to the ground at this point. I may need to buy different springs for the front as the new engine should weigh around 1-200 lbs less and the coilovers were already at their lowest setting.
Also made some more significant headway on wiring and got half of my new valve springs installed tonight.
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i keep mistaking the firebird on the intake as the quake logo, is that bad?
i'm jealous of all of the room you RWD guys have, makes me want to find a later 3rd gen or early 4th gen F-body.
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Finally made some more progress. First was giving the engine bay a good clean:
Engine finally going in:
And then we got the transmission crossmember bolted up to get the approximate engine location:
I'd say this classifies as mid-engine
My rear coilovers arrived today so next will be reinstalling the rear end to make sure everything lines up properly. Right now it looks like it's sitting on a bit of an angle towards the passenger's side. Anyone know how low the bottom of the oil pan should be in relation to the k-member?
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Originally posted by caffeine View PostHaha well I'll probably just be lazy since it'll be all hidden in the trans tunnel
yeah, not gonna lie, I was thinking along the same lines...
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Haha well I'll probably just be lazy since it'll be all hidden in the trans tunnel
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Originally posted by caffeine View PostI decided that washers between the transmission and bellhousing would be too annoying to deal with so instead I made a spacer with some aluminum:
Doesn't look too pretty on that picture but it actually fits nicely all bolted up:
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I decided that washers between the transmission and bellhousing would be too annoying to deal with so instead I made a spacer with some aluminum:
Doesn't look too pretty on that picture but it actually fits nicely all bolted up:
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Nice work brotha.......after watching that honda blow it's lid....wow, time for me to shield the cabin. I can't even think about loosing a passenger, let alone myself.
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So I got the SFI bellhousing installed today!
I thought about getting a machine shop to copy the adapter plate pattern but ultimately decided just to do it myself. I put the SBC dowels through the backing plate and adapter plate, clamped them together, and copied the holes with a drill press. To make sure the engine dowel holes were 100% accurate I drilled smaller holes and then enlarged them with a dremel for a nice snug fit. I then used a 2.5" hole saw to make a couple holes for the starter.
Had to clearance a bit for the starter, but not as much as the stock bellhousing. Should still be plenty strong.
Had to do some minor grinding in two spots on the inside of the bell. Nothing major.
The flywheel was touching the backing plate initially, but I had some flywheel shims around so I slipped a thin one on and now the flywheel spins freely. Unfortunately it also messed up the TOB to PP clearance so I had to trim the HTOB a bit more.
Then came bolting the bell to the backing plate. It's much like it was before except instead of having to clearance for the top two 60* bell bolts I simply drilled those holes in the bellhousing as well (clamped to the backing plate of course).
With the new bellhousing there are also like 10 bolts/nuts that go all the way around the housing to secure the bell to the backing plate. This setup is not going to budge.
And finally the transmission bolted up. For the second time. I ended up putting some washers between the bellhousing and the transmission because the new setup is slightly skinnier and it just wouldn't seat 100%. The gap is very small and I don't think it will be an issue. Haha this bellhousing actually looks wider than the engine and actually goes a bit lower than the oil pan
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Whew. Now that's over with the next step is to put this in the car I think!. Can't wait, but have no time of course.
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