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89 Firebird Turbo 3500 Build
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For fwd I could see it being easier to just make a steel shield to go over the bellhousing.
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I'm considering fabricating one for my fwd. Loosing an arm or head could make for a bad day.
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Ya I'm definitely getting an SFI bellhousing. Even if I have to modify one its going to be stronger than a stock aluminum one.
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He is really luck he got away with his foot intact !!! Holy hell
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Originally posted by TGP37 View Postbetter then having lethal bell housing chunks from a grenading flywheel. I bet a flywheel spinning up around 6-7k rpm has got to be like a large saw blade
On a side note, I would have given my car and my left... um, appendage for that car before the incident...
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Originally posted by ericjon262 View Postit'll make oil changes messy...
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If they recommend it, better then having lethal bell housing chunks from a grenading flywheel. I bet a flywheel spinning up around 6-7k rpm has got to be like a large saw blade, if it doesn't shatter first.
I've only heard about it, never seen it myself. I feel a little bit better with arp flywheel bolts on mine.
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I emailed Lakewood to find out the cost of a custom bellhousing or a lightly modded lt1-style bellhousing so I guess I'll hear back from them tomorrow. If it's too much I think I'll just buy a Lakewood LT1 bellhousing and mod it as required.
Anyone know if there's an SFI harmonic balancer available?
Edit to add: I thought about it some more and the the Lakewood bellhousing comes with a midplate that bolts to the motor before the bellhousing. It may be possible to drill the V6 bolt pattern into this plate and ditch the adapter plate...Last edited by caffeine; 11-13-2012, 10:31 PM.
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So I was jut reviewing the NHRA rules for running in the 10s and it turns out that an SFI bellhousing and flywheel are required (among other things). Should I invest in those things? I have no idea how strict the local tracks are. I was planning on caging the car and installing a driveshaft safety loop anyway.
Lakewood makes an LT1 bellhousing in the $500-600 range but it probably requires modification just like the stock one.
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Wow according to the f-body.org gear ratio calculator I should be in 5th gear at the end of the 1/4 haha
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Ya I just threw some high-temp header paint on there. I don't expect it to last but it lasted a few months on my v8 headers. I just hate installing dirty parts haha
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Bolt the filter right to the motor, easy access once its in there.
I bet whatever paint you used on the pipes will melt off instantly. haha.
11.13 is the quickest I went on that setup. I'm sure you'll go quicker. That was a 3.27 gear.
Good Luck !!Last edited by Mars; 11-04-2012, 03:17 PM.
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Originally posted by caffeine View Post
Any reason the oil filter adapter can't be bolted on like this? It clears the starter I'm just not sure it will clear the frame.
it'll make oil changes messy...
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Bolted on a few more things
That's a few more things bolted on. Power steering pump and bracket, under drive crank pulley with trigger wheel, clocked the turbo so the drain faces down haha.
The FWD water pump pulley I noticed is larger than the RWD pulley. Both bolt on and are the correct depth. I'm wondering if its a good idea to put on the FWD pulley and turn the WP a little slower. Any ideas?
Any reason the oil filter adapter can't be bolted on like this? It clears the starter I'm just not sure it will clear the frame.
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Well I'm using Mars' old manifolds and crossover, with a slightly faster spooling turbo and the 6-speed should hopefully accelerate a bit faster. And hopefully nAst1 will have a spark-cut limiter when I'm ready to run. So yes, I'm going for 10s.
However there's nothing for Motorsports around here until March or April except for drifting. Maybe I'll give that a try haha. I'd just hate to damage this shell. There might be some autoX somewhere though but I think that's over now too.
No 1/4 mile till spring.
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