3400 N/A Monte Build Thread

[TGP37]

I was experiancing some high underhood temps so i have purchased some DEI titanium treated header wrap, should look nice and keep things cooler.

keep in mind, lean = cooler exhaust but hotter coolant temps. Rich = hotter exhaust and cooler coolant temps.

Being possible to have cool exhaust temps and still run hot. Just mentioning in case the wrap doesn't help temps.

[ForcedFirebird]

keep in mind, lean = cooler exhaust but hotter coolant temps. Rich = hotter exhaust and cooler coolant temps.

Being possible to have cool exhaust temps and still run hot. Just mentioning in case the wrap doesn't help temps.

What? have you ever measured exhaust temps? You header will be hotter on lean cylinders.

[TGP37]

What? have you ever measured exhaust temps? You header will be hotter on lean cylinders.

Yes, I have an EGT but haven't spent enough time driving and learning the temps yet. I must have read bad info, misunderstood it or said it wrong. From what I gathered the egt's are lower from less burning fuel in the exhaust stream and hotter coolant from lack of fuel cooling the combustion chamber. Alternately running rich cools the combustion chamber more and dumps still burning fuel into the exhaust, making the exhaust hotter.

But now that I think of it, egt's are at their hottest at stoich....and cooler either direction lean or rich. So how does this work out, lol......now I'm curious, since I opened my mouth. I'd hate to spread bad info.

[SappySE107]

I think what John is saying is different than it can be interpreted. Stoich is lean in power enrichment. Its not "lean" for normal driving, but its lean for making max power.

[ForcedFirebird]

We are saying the same thing in a way, I believe LOL, just depends on the target AFR. If a cyl misfires, then it will be cool on the EGT's since there is excessive fuel.

[TGP37]

I think what John is saying is different than it can be interpreted. Stoich is lean in power enrichment. Its not "lean" for normal driving, but its lean for making max power.

Ah yes, I should have seen that.

[bob442]

Well the header wrap sure worked on the exhaust, I can hold a primary with it running it works so well. Tool about 6 hours to wrap the headers. Under hood is cooler but the intake still gets hot. Not extremly hot though. My o2 reads 14.7 on cruise and idle iirc. It's running better after I figured out the tach wire for the command start was causing a injector to cut out on wot


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[TGP37]

Well the header wrap sure worked on the exhaust, I can hold a primary with it running it works so well. Tool about 6 hours to wrap the headers. Under hood is cooler but the intake still gets hot. Not extremly hot though. My o2 reads 14.7 on cruise and idle iirc. It's running better after I figured out the tach wire for the command start was causing a injector to cut out on wot


Sent from my iPhone using my iPhone at work cuz I have nothing to do

You should get some more power too.

[bob442]

288.7 crank Hp @ 5800 rpm, 284 ft/lbt. @ 4000rpm
217 whp @ 5800 rpm


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[3400-95-Modified]

dyno run? or simulation?

[bob442]

Dyno and tuned


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[Fireball]

Bet you get 30 mpg on the highway too.... take that modern engines

[3400-95-Modified]

Crank numbers are obviously guesstimation on how much is lost in the driveline correct? I'm calculating about 25% loss from the numbers you posted... So you could be over estimating the loss.

Someday I will build a run bench so I could quite possibly bring my engine somewhere to actually run it on an engine dyno. I have a full 96 Beretta harness sitting in my parts car in the driveway to possibly use, or my 95/96 hybrid harness.

[bob442]

we were having alot of issues flashing, second flash killed a PCM, then we had to relearn vats after ever flash which took 30 minutes. My tuner said i'm loosing alot of numbers from having a auto trans, and that if he locked up the tourqe converter it would bring up the numbers probably by 20 hp

[3400-95-Modified]

Locking the converter is easy... I tried that back when I was running n/a in the 1/4 to act as another gear... It was interesting, but should be very easy to setup on a dyno to see the results. Typical drive line loss with autos is said to be 20% and 15% with a manual. But then again that will always vary with other changes in the drive line.

What tuner are you using to flash with? Also just disable the VATS system. Shut off all the VATS codes in the DTC section and then change the VATS enabled to null or 0. Or leave it enabled and set the VATS learn timer to 5 seconds.

If you have a .bin file I can do that for you.