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1999 OLDS ALERO 3500 swap

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  • AleroB888
    replied
    Originally posted by nixtux View Post
    I got the transmission issue resolved. It was the transmission pressure valve. Apparently GM changed the valve in 2003 on the 45. Had to have that replaced so the computer can regulate the pressure. Not a big deal, took about 4hrs and the part was around $70. However, changing it pre-vehicle is BEST so FYI. >2002 transmission
    in 99' need the old valve. Could be the same for upto 2002. I'm not sure.

    .................
    Are you able to get the part# for what you replaced in the trans? Mine is on the bench at a shop now, and if that part is a GM upgrade / retrofit for the stock 1999, I'd probably get that done, too......

    As far as "safe modes" in the 1999 PCM, I think that is very possible and very frustrating. With a supercharger and larger injectors, I could not "retune" the stock 1999 PCM ( in fact, such attempts created a "fail mode"), and finally went to a 2001 program. HP Tuners tech was never able to help on it. However, I have not tried the latest HP T version, opting to keep the devil I know, for now.

    Leave a comment:


  • nixtux
    replied
    Figured it out.

    Put parking break on - Turn off all accessories
    Apply brake
    start vehicle
    Connect to VCM (with scanning off)
    Goto VCM controls -> special
    Click begin under Case relearn
    Slowly rev engine to cut off (rev limiter - 4500)
    Let it go back to idle and turn off for 1 minute.

    Restart vehicle.

    In my case however, the DTC is still there. From what I could find on google it's
    P1336 that indicates a relearn is required. Once it completely cools off I'll see if I
    notice better idling with it (it jumps a little during cold starts < 45F.)

    I have tracked down 1 vac leak so need to get a clamp (or w/e they are called.)





    Originally posted by nixtux View Post
    I do have HP tuner and it's registered. Maybe a stupid question but how do I do a case
    relearn?

    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • nixtux
    replied
    Originally posted by boomofdoom88 View Post
    You need to do a CASE relearn. If you dont have hptuners, take it to a dealer to do it. I doubt the sensor itself is bad.
    I do have HP tuner and it's registered. Maybe a stupid question but how do I do a case
    relearn?

    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • boomofdoom88
    replied
    You need to do a CASE relearn. If you dont have hptuners, take it to a dealer to do it. I doubt the sensor itself is bad.

    Leave a comment:


  • nixtux
    replied
    I got the transmission issue resolved. It was the transmission pressure valve. Apparently GM changed the valve in 2003 on the 45. Had to have that replaced so the computer can regulate the pressure. Not a big deal, took about 4hrs and the part was around $70. However, changing it pre-vehicle is BEST so FYI. >2002 transmission
    in 99' need the old valve. Could be the same for upto 2002. I'm not sure.

    On to the only remaining issue (I believe it may be a issue anyway.)

    [PCM] P0336 - Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor A Performance (SES) (Old) (History) (Current) (Immature) --- Is this normal with these swaps?

    I was looking into having it tuned a bit and the guy i was talking to said that that code puts the motor into a "safe mode" so it can't be tuned.

    Any advice would be helpful. I'm thinking I'll replace the crank sensor since I don't know what sensor was used and, more so, the wiring on the IAT sensor went to crap
    so I figure it's worth redoing the wiring for the crank sensor as well (the same douche
    did the wiring ... if the IAT wiring is any indication ... yeah about that.)

    Leave a comment:


  • nixtux
    replied
    A couple snaps from the other day when I changed the water pump.
    Click image for larger version

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ID:	376849Click image for larger version

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ID:	376850

    Leave a comment:


  • nixtux
    replied
    Still am having transmission issues and I need to replace the crank pulley. The pulley used is jacked. It was a rusted POS that was wire wheeled and it's cutting the shat out of my belt.

    The transmission needs a newer computer to regulate the pressure or some crap. So sometimes it doesn't shift into 4th/OD. It's 50/50. Sounds like I have to update the
    computer. Otherwise it's pretty cool. The heads on the old motor will be pulled when I can afford it. Hopefully get the other motor running.

    Leave a comment:


  • TechRod
    replied
    Any updates?

    Leave a comment:


  • nixtux
    replied
    Figured it out. The IAT sensor went bad.

    Leave a comment:


  • nixtux
    replied
    It's alive again but it's doing several really weird things.

    1. The transmission won't shift into 4th anymore (2800RPM @ 55MPH) - was around 1900RPM @ 60MPH.
    2. If I accelerate even moderately hard it'll rev up and down. I've taken a couple videos (I'll upload to youtube shortly.) I have to accelerate hard sometimes to get the gear to engage (IE, shifting from park to reverse.)
    3. If I accelerate hard, it'll jump like it's between gripping (like traction control is on but it isn't.) Also it's on
    dry pavement and I didn't WOT it. So there is no reason it would be breaking traction.
    4. The overflow on the res tank is constantly spewing fluid. It causes an annoying squeak when pressure is applied to the accelerator.
    5. The fans don't turn on. I'm going to test the volts on this from the connectors. It's such a odd thing because
    they do seem to turn on every once and awhile but it's too irregular to drive in the city.

    1-3 are transmission related I'm sure. The motor runs fantastic. The transmission is a 4T45-E from a 05' Grand Am. I'm thinking it may need more fluid pressure? It also has those inserts (which I regret doing after learning it'll burn it out after 50k or less.) Is this normal? Or could they have been put in wrong? If so, should I bite it and put a new transmission in?

    Also with the old motor, I had a shop briefly look at it and they think it may have been a valve guide seizing.
    He briefly mentioned causes but I didn't really understand what he was saying.


    EDIT: 1-3 are fine. What's happening is abuse mode is getting triggered. I assume it's because I put the overheat temp to 230 in the computer. Well, if it's warmed up and I run in somewhere ... it goes over that temp. Maybe??? I'll probably adjust that to 240 and see if it stops. I can resolve it by clearing the DTCs so I'm pretty sure that's what it is.

    Also the Res tank isn't leaking anymore so I assume it was overfilled (but it wasn't since it was right on the cold line.) Not sure how that works but, hey, not spewing anti-freeze is great.

    Thanks!
    Last edited by nixtux; 09-15-2011, 08:35 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • nixtux
    replied
    Originally posted by Starglow View Post
    Sorry man....that sucks. I'm about to put a 3500 in my son's GA. I'm curious as to why some people are replacing the sub-frame and some are not. What are the benefits of swapping the sub frame?
    The nearest I can think of, leaky 'rack and pinion,' and/or convenience?

    Leave a comment:


  • Starglow
    replied
    Originally posted by nixtux View Post
    All the exhaust valves hit. Why??? No idea. It's a bit odd that only the exhaust valves hit when the timing was apparently correct.

    Money has been short the past year and this shit cost me over $15,000 with parts and labor. I'm having a stock 3500 put in this week
    and the motor is going to a local machine shop for a valve job and they will determine why it failed. This has been a complete and utter
    disappointment. No one takes any responsibility and it's absolutely my fault. I'm just tired of it.
    Sorry man....that sucks. I'm about to put a 3500 in my son's GA. I'm curious as to why some people are replacing the sub-frame and some are not. What are the benefits of swapping the sub frame?

    Leave a comment:


  • nixtux
    replied
    All the exhaust valves hit. Why??? No idea. It's a bit odd that only the exhaust valves hit when the timing was apparently correct.

    Money has been short the past year and this shit cost me over $15,000 with parts and labor. I'm having a stock 3500 put in this week
    and the motor is going to a local machine shop for a valve job and they will determine why it failed. This has been a complete and utter
    disappointment. No one takes any responsibility and it's absolutely my fault. I'm just tired of it.

    Leave a comment:


  • Starglow
    replied
    This was like reading a good book and the last page is missing. So what happened? I assume the engine is running again by now....right?

    Leave a comment:


  • nixtux
    replied
    that is #1 apparently.
    Last edited by nixtux; 09-26-2010, 07:55 PM.

    Leave a comment:

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