I'm putting together a parts list. I'm not 100% sure what all I need to replace. Why the engine failed, well not sure. Guesses are, either the camshaft timing was off or the valve springs were installed improperly. I won't know for about 3-4 weeks (money issues.)
In the mean time, I'm having the heads redone (a valve job.) I was quoted around $70 as long as I buy the parts.
I know for sure that the exhaust valves hit the pistons. I'm unsure about the intake valves currently. I figure replace all the valves just to be safe.
Parts: I know I'll want to get valves, retainers and keepers. I'm unsure on where to get the seats and valve guide (if needed.) Should I get a set of felpro valve stem seals?
Gaskets: timing cover, crank seal, head gaskets, and after that I'm not sure. I should be able to reuse the intake since it has a measly 17 miles on it.
Should I replace the lifters?
Since the heads are coming off, I've been considering pulling the camshaft out and having a larger drive pin machined. Where is a good place to obtain a larger diameter drive pin?
I'm back and worth on the pushrods. I may get new ones just to be safe but I have a little time before I have to decide on them.
Any thoughts on the comp cam 1:6 roller rockers? Are they worth the investment or just stick with the stock roller rockers?
Thanks!
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1999 OLDS ALERO 3500 swap
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Hopefully I'll have my truck running good Friday/Saturday (depending if any deposits clear my account) and I'll try to run up there and get some better pictures. Here is a couple I have of the heads that are clearer than the one previously posted. I didn't notice the glare on it... Thanks for the picture reference.Originally posted by SappySE107 View Post
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I'm not a valvetrain expert. How would I check to see if this happened? Pull a valvecover... What would I look for after that.Originally posted by SappySE107 View PostMake sure the valve stem is above the retainer and the rocker arm doesn't hit the retainer at any point. I had a problem with Comp retainers/keepers but never stock or Manley.
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Make sure the valve stem is above the retainer and the rocker arm doesn't hit the retainer at any point. I had a problem with Comp retainers/keepers but never stock or Manley.
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Yes those are the correct springs. If you have coil bind, a pushrod is in the wrong place.
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I keep getting told it's a geometry issue or coil bind. Are the Comp Cams 26986 Valve Springs the right springs? I got the longer pushrods, as suggested. I used the stock seals, seats, lifters, rockers, ect. It's such mind----.
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Getting somewhere with the car. Got the timing cover removed and the timing was fine and the drive-pin wasn't sheered. I got some numbers for the pushrods but I'm pretty sure they were wrong. I suspect that his micrometer wasn't long enough and he tried to line it up to get the length. I went to the shop and pulled two from the new engine and two from my old 3400. I'm going to try to find micrometer Monday just to double check. It sure would've been nice if it was something as simple as a pushrod... But I don't think that's the case.
I'm somewhat at a lose. One thing to note, in the last 4-5 weeks the exhaust valve springs have pulled the valves up some. I'm not sure if that's important or not. Looking for some idea. Hopefully will get it tore down to the block with week so any measurements, pictures, ect I should take to try and find out why it failed. I really want to get this thing on the road, but I'm skeptic about dropping change to get it redone until I know what failed and why.
As far as I can tell, a Magical engine gremlin decided he'd bend the exhaust valves so I was stranded on a highway in humid 90F weather so he could lol at me whilst I sat and baked. Any suggestions would be welcomed.
Comp Cams 26986 Valve Springs
Fel pro head gasket
GM stock intake gaskets
Attached is the comp cam ticket
Any other info, let me know.
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Getting somewhere with the car. Got the timing cover removed and the timing was fine and the drive-pin wasn't sheered. I got some numbers for the pushrods but I'm pretty sure they were wrong. I suspect that his micrometer wasn't long enough and he tried to line it up to get the length. I went to the shop and pulled two from the new engine and two from my old 3400. I'm going to try to find micrometer Monday just to double check. It sure would've been nice if it was something as simple as a pushrod... But I don't think that's the case.
I'm somewhat at a lose. One thing to note, in the last 4-5 weeks the exhaust valve springs have pulled the valves up some. I'm not sure if that's important or not. Looking for some idea. Hopefully will get it tore down to the block with week so any measurements, pictures, ect I should take to try and find out why it failed. I really want to get this thing on the road, but I'm skeptic about dropping change to get it redone until I know what failed and why.
As far as I can tell, a Magical engine gremlin decided he'd bend the exhaust valves so I was stranded on a highway in 90F humid whether so he could lol at me whilst I sat and baked. Any suggestions would be welcomed.
Comp Cams 26986 Valve Springs
Fel pro head gasket
GM stock intake gaskets
Attached is the comp cam ticket
Any other info, let me know.
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The cost for parts and labor to fix whatever happened. I'm calling around to see what kind of quotesOriginally posted by CNCguy View PostThe usual cause seems to be not enough torque on the cam gear bolt. IIRC it should be 108 ft/lbs but I usually go 5~10# over and have had good luck so far. GM should have used a larger pin or made the pin from a better grade material. What's the $3000 for?
That's all you can do is just move on.. what's done is done with no going back. Best of luck. Send me an email if I can be of any help.
I get. But I've never gotten a quote that stuck.
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The passenger side axle ended up being different and the piece where the shift cable connect had to be changed from the old transmission. Otherwise it workedOriginally posted by onefastV6 View PostOk good it is out of a 05 GT, for a second it looked like one of the newer transmissions that have a different side pan and different valve body for the tap shift.
Tranny looks clean, should be rewarding once it is done.
great. I did get some DTC's about different wheel speeds. I don't recall exactly what they are though. Can't really go and test it either.
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The usual cause seems to be not enough torque on the cam gear bolt. IIRC it should be 108 ft/lbs but I usually go 5~10# over and have had good luck so far. GM should have used a larger pin or made the pin from a better grade material. What's the $3000 for?
That's all you can do is just move on.. what's done is done with no going back. Best of luck. Send me an email if I can be of any help.
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Anyway I shouldn't get all negative. Shit happens, move on, and just try to make sure it
doesn't happen again. Thanks for all the advice.
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I'm at a loss as to why the drive pin would have slipped in the first place. Eitherway, the car will beOriginally posted by CNCguy View PostSounds like it only slipped a small amount compared to what usually happens. Most likely since the RPMs were low. I am sure that Ben can hook you up with some valves. Be sure to check the pushrods by rolling them on a very flat surface like a piece of glass. I would replace any with even the slightest bow.
Getting the broken pin out can be difficult. Usually when the pin shears it makes the hole egg shaped and doesn't support the pin properly. You run a high risk of a repeat if you don't repair the hole. Luckily, the journal with the hole for the pin is soft and can be drilled and reamed. You can open the hole up to a larger size and use a stepped pin or the cam and gear can be opened up to use a larger straight pin. We had a customer who used two pins 180 degrees apart.
at the shop for at lesat another two weeks so I'm out another two weeks on top of the already SIX weeks.
Another 2-3 weeks and another 3,000... yah.
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