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Six_Shooter's money pit and time vampire... v.240Z
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That sounds like a better way to go, the more like epoxy that is. I also used Artic Silver because that was just sitting around after a computer build.
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I sand mine down, finishing in the 800 range.... not quite a mirror finish, but better than the stamped/extruded surface it has otherwise. arctic alumina under the latest one, on a processor that stuff sets up like an epoxy more than a grease and has more than decent thermal conductance ratings.
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I had a few fail, started cleaning the backside and the plate really well and using Artic Silver thermal paste between them. Never had another problem. Those modules get hot quick, even on a tester at the parts store.
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Guest repliedI picked up the block, crank and new bearings, gaskets, etc today.
Now I need to get the old engine out and get the ARP stuff out of it for the new (old?) engine.
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Read about that on another site long ago. After that it was done to each ICM that was put on my cars(well just a total of two) and never had a problem. Seems like the best idea to make sure the heat transfer to the mount plate(also used for cooling) is even, with no areas/spots cooler or warmer do to moisture build up(or gaps between the plate and the ICM).
That may not have anything to do with what's going on, but it may help you sleep at night(lol).
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Guest repliedWell, I dropped the block, crank and mains off today, and was told that I'd have them back tomorrow, with new bearings and new gaskets.I'm only getting him to dunk the block and polish the crank, so it's not that labour intensive. He'll probably spend more time on the phone ordering stuff than working on my parts. lol
I also ordered a couple other gaskets from NAPA as well that I'll need.
No, I've never used heat sink grease on the ICM, never had a problem previously. I'm still not sure that's the problem, but so far that seems most likely. I still need to get the engine out of the car and do a full tear down. That'll happen this week end, most likely.Last edited by Guest; 07-16-2015, 11:34 PM.
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Oh man that is cutting is close. Good luck!
Did you use any heat sink grease on the bottom of the ICM? That helps heat transfer and keeps moisture out.
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Guest repliedNo, definitely not a "boost thing" I was decelerating, RPM was about 1000 RPM. I think the module just out right failed and didn't know what cylinders (coil) to fire at what time.
I need to get my old block apart tonight and drop it off tomorrow, so that I can get it back on Friday, because my engine guy leaves for 10 to 14 days.
Hopefully I don't need to order anything while he's away. *crosses fingers*
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Damn! Not sure if I understand all sparking at the same time. Total loss of waste spark do to what? Or is it a "boost thing"? Clueless.
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Guest repliedSo, finally have one of these:
But...
my car currently looks like this:
No idea what happened, but I saw over 30 PSIG on my boost gauge, and the engine sounded like a diesel, with the AFR showing straight air (99.99 AFR) at 1000 RPM as I was coming to a stop. It wouldn't re-fire, and now had a definite new knock when being turned over. It also backfired a few times through the intake. I have a suspicion that the engine might have actually started rotating in reverse with the symptoms.
At first I suspected a broken dowel pin on the cam, since it's not uncommon for them to break on these engines, but nope, that checked out fine.
So then I suspected a broken cam, but so far that doesn't seem to be the case.
A mechanic friend of mine suggested that the ignition module took a dump on me and either started firing the wrong cylinders or all of the cylinders at the same time. He said he's seen that before. Without finding any mechanical failures so far I might have to agree with him.
So out with this engine and will be rebuilding my previous short block to go back in.
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The smoke seem to go with the color(s), really they do. Almost shocking that they are still available.
Hang that clutch on the wall!
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Guest repliedYes, the covers are still available, through a few places. Clear and smoked versions are available to boot.
On a semi-related note. I think, after 7 years of abuse it may finally be time to buy a new clutch. It's been behind 3 different engines, in front of 3 different transmissions attached to two different flywheels, and it's held up to more power than it was really rated for, so I have no complaints about needing a new clutch at this point, now just to decide what clutch to get...
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Body shape is one thing, but I think you will miss them after a few runs. Not much input on this, just remember something about 130mph or close to it, then it becomes a major factor. Never had to worry about it much. Never had a car fast enough on the track.
Well there has been a lot of thought on this. Not much as these cars are more "set in stone"(not race cars). Thoughts of a solid grille on my car(like the egg crate for extra cooling). Then I did play and will again with the "gaskets" that go around the headlights. Which would be something good if used with the solid grille. This is all about MPG for me. Less cross wind drag that is or overall drag on the highway. Just another long term(not high on the list) project.
Back to yours: can you still get those covers?
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Guest repliedYeah, apparently they help quite a bit. There was some testing done on a Z car site, well the results were posted on that Z car site an actual wind tunnel was used for testing and I don't remember the actual numbers but the head light covers seemed to be a significant improvement in aero. Personally, I don't really care enough about that with how I use to the car to care. Maybe I'll add them again in the future.
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Originally posted by The_Raven View PostThe headlight covers really aren't that rare, though these ones were bought back in the early '80's by the person I bought them from. They are an aftermarket item, not a factory head light cover.
They will soon be coming off, due to the weather cracking, and I don't think I'll put another set on. I liked them, but I think I just want to go without at this point.
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