ok i will try that thanks for the help. it will prob be either this week or next when i get to it. dont know if it will happen this week i got a dentist appointment right smack in the middle of the afternoon.
anythings better than pissing away 200 bucks on lifters i dont need.
but seriously though the pushrods didnt seem loose but ill check all that ish when i get the dial indicator.
at least im not the only one having this issue granted this is on an LS! but same situtation none the less
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Valvetrain noise after cam swap
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You need the one with a magnetic base. No need to spend that kind of money, though- especially if you won't be using it every day. These two should fix you up if you don't mind paying tribute to the Middle Kingdom:
You'll get different opinions from different people about how much preload you should have. I'd say that .020 to .040 is a good rule of thumb. I don't know if you'll have a spec in the book.
The way your engine sounds, though, I'm going to guess that you have no preload at all. Matter of fact... I'm not sure that the dial indicator will be necessary if you know what you're looking for. Before you order that stuff, just put each cylinder at TDC compression adn see if the pushrods are loose. If they are, then you've found your problem.
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what kind of dialindicator am i looking for here
this one looks like it would be good its got a magnetic base
Last edited by geldartb; 06-08-2008, 09:54 AM.
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Seriously, if you haven't
1. Checked the lifter preload.
2. With a dial indicator.
3. At TDC compression.
4. On each and every single valve.
Then you're pissing against the wind, here. If you have valve-train noise, then this needs to be checked. Swapping parts and hoping will get you nowhere fast... especially when dealing with non-stock parts.
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But have you actually used a dial indicator and checked the preload on each lifter?
So you have custom-length pushrods... and they SHOULD be the right length. But the question is this: Have you actually checked? With a dial indicator? Each and every one? At TDC compression on each cylinder?Last edited by tractorman; 06-07-2008, 12:34 AM.
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i still got the ls6 springs, never used them but i only paid like 65 bucks for them a few years ago. the only time they have been used was to mount them and take them off.
ive ran out of shit to check other than shelling out 200 bucks for brandy new lifters, which i honestly dont see solving the problem cause i already swapped out lifter with the ls1 springs inside them so the should be better than the stock ones.
ive had the top end off more times than i care to remember.Last edited by geldartb; 06-05-2008, 05:43 PM.
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well its a good thing you did, i didnt and i had to sell the springs for not so much as what i bought them, lost a descent amount of money on that idea...well i hope u can find the problem
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the heads are stock 05 3400 with like 7k on them. its the engine i originally bought to replace the original engine that got roasted due to intake gasket failure.
i locktighted the torx bolts for the cam holder thing and the rockers are plenty tight trust me.
the springs are def not touching, they were pretty damn close to touching with the yellow ls6 when i was assembling the engine so i went ahead and got the comp cams ones to save myself the headach later on down the road.
the valve seal/seats are the original ones from the 7k motor so they still should be fine.
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ko, mine mad some hellacious noise, but also because the cam was walking, and the springs were smacking themselves
thats the last time i get caught without locktite
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right, im just saying that I haven't heard a setup running with bad guides to know:P
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to fill you in, he has custom rods for the cam, got them from the store here, and they should have the preload designed into them. Well ben you did see my guides.
Hey geldartb who did you get the heads from?
and ben i wasnt saying you had any bad heads, i meant worn guides like what i had, that would cause valve train issues probably
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He has custom length pushrods, that are a hair longer than they should be but shouldn't be causing this sound. If they were too long, there would be compression loss from the valves staying open, so I know this isn't the case. He already tried the stock pushrods as well.
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I don't mean to be trite here... but I'm not about to read through 16 pages. So I'm just gonn ask:
Have you checked how much preload is on the lifters? Actually set up a dial indicator and checked each lifter? 'Cause from what I've read, it seems to me that the valve train is just loose.
Seeings how these valvetrains are non-adjustable, I don't have any ready solutions if this does in fact turn out to be your problem. But it'd be worth checking. Custom-length pushrods are available, and I don't think they're all that expensive.
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I haven't heard a motor make that sound and I haven't had bad guides on any of my motors yet. Higher lift would make that more noticeable though.
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hey ben how about some worn guides? i had so many problems with valvetrain noise, it turns out the torx bolts that hold the thrust plate on backed out and let the cam walk a little, and one of the rocker arms backed out of the threaded pedestal. it made all sorts of knowledge, that and i think i was running into coil bind with some yellow ls springs too. i havent tried the 26915 springs with my stock 02 seats yet(ben has the heads) but when i get them back, im going to try them out and see if they will make any noise, if they do ill just change to the 26918, or i may go with those to begin with...
just a few personal experiences...
the worn guides would make the valves make noise trying to center in the seat
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