Valvetrain noise after cam swap

[geldartb]

i think i found the issue. now i know when i sealed it up the first time the thing was timed right you know everything lined up according to the picture i had from alldata.
now i open the thing up today and instead of the alignment nub on the cam pointing to the right its 180 degrees opposite it was pointing left.

all the dots are aligned on the cam and sprocket the way they are suppose to be, so well see.

might go down after i get the gasket and finish putting it back together.

so all that said and done after i get another timing cover gasket and it back together she should be good to go.

Install the crankshaft sprocket using the J 38612.
Apply prelude GM P/N 1052365 or an equivalent to the crankshaft sprocket thrust surface.





Install the timing chain dampener
Install the timing chain dampener bolts.
Tighten the timing chain dampener bolt to 21 N.m. (15 lb.ft.) .





Align the crankshaft timing mark(2) to the timing mark on the bottom of the timing chain dampener (1).
Hold the camshaft sprocket with the timing chain hanging down.





Install the timing chain to the crankshaft gear.
Align the timing mark on the camshaft gear (4) with the timing mark on top of the timing chain dampener (3).
Align the dowel in the camshaft with the dowel hole in the camshaft sprocket.
Draw the camshaft sprocket onto the camshaft using the mounting bolt.
Coat the crankshaft and the camshaft sprocket with engine oil.
Tighten the bolt to 140 N.m. (103 lb.ft.)
Install the crankcase front cover.
Fill the cooling system.
Connect the negative battery cable.

this is how i did it so if its wrong then i blame the directions.

[geldartb]

ah yeah gotcha was super careful when i was putting the cover back on the first time.
i have a spare oil pan gasket but id prefer not to use it unless i have to, it was originally going to go on the old 3400 that was in there but the coolant had other ideas.

[pocket-rocket]

Just be careful when the cover goes back on, or you will be dropping the pan for a new pan gasket. Been there, done that >.<

[geldartb]

the radiator has a draincock on it that points directly down i usually use and old 3 liter soda bottle or milk jug to catch the antifreeze in but it somehow manages to find its way to the floor.

dont know how much antifreeze made its way into the block but yeah i guess ill just have to live with it when i pop the timing cover.

i got a big white tray about 4 inches deep and about 4 feet x 4 feet that i can clean out to catch the excess in the block. robbed that when i worked at papa ginos if youve ever seen behind the counter its the big white containers they keep the dough in until they need it to make a pizza.
makes a good catch container.

[IsaacHayes]

I have a nifty hose I put on my radiator drain tube and it sticks out a hole in the bottom of the radiator support so I can drain it right into a pan and it's nice and clean that way and no spills. But you're gonna have coolant spilling into the oil and floor when you take that timing cover off unless you take a coolant plug out of the block. When I did mine I just let it spill and I siphoned the excess out of the block with a hose and then when I was done I drained the oil plug a little to get rid of the coolant that fell down into the pan before starting it up.

[geldartb]

yeah i know ill let you know if i end up doing anything.

the timing cover shouldnt be too bad yay more antifreeze all over the place. god i hate antifreze.

im half tempted at this point to go get a few gallons of distilled water for the ease of cleanup and the amount that ends up on the ground, and for the fact that 8dollars for a jug of antifreeze adds up when it ends up on the floor.

looked at prices of antifreeze and the cheap chit isnt even cheap its the same price as the peak stuff i was using.

[3400-95-Modified]

You don't need that timing paper... its simple, Dot on crank points DIRECTLY up, dot on cam gear points DIRECTLY down... they line up with some notches that are in the dampener too.

Basically dot to dot alignment.

[geldartb]

im gonna have to lift the motor a little anyway since i have to take the motor mount out, guess its time do dig out the picker.

i looked inside the engine when i was doing the shit yesterday and it looked normal like.

ill have to print out some more of that timing shit from alldata forgot what i did with what i had plus i think it got soaked with oil.

[3400-95-Modified]

Stick a rag in the gas tank and light it a flame!!!! LOL

On a serious note, if your pulling the timing cover, take the time to lift the motor on an angle and see if you can pull and inspect the cam, granted we looked through the lifter bores and I didn't see anything out of the ordianary...

[geldartb]

eh its pissed me off before enough to say push it out the garage in front of a truck but its still here. and where would i get rid of it no one wants a car with no engine.

i might try pulling the timing cover off next to double check that area. hell ive had the top end off like 4 times now. could do a lim gaskt job in my sleep.

the timing cover shouldnt be too bad to take off and check that crap while its in the car, really dont want to pull the engine just for that.

gotta slide some time to do the u-joints on the subaru too, there not to the point where tis vibrating or making noise while driving but there is play on the front one and a slight thud when putting it into park.

well see how the rain situation is tomorrow or maybe this weekend if i feel like it, if not it will have to wait till next friday since i go back to work next week

[pocket-rocket]

Well I hope it really is lifters not filling up with oil. I would hate to see you get rid of a car that sounds like it would really rock because you couldn't find this problem. I don't have a ton of money floating around either, so I know why you are being very careful, and I don't blame you.

[geldartb]

yeah ill try the coolant maybe with a giant ray of hope it will work. with those springs it might take a little longer than normal to fill them up.
below is a quote from daves statement back on page 6 so hopefully thats the case with mine cause i didnt rev the shit out of it for obvious reasons of avoiding catastropic failure.

stock on the left and LT1/LSx on the right. that's the check valve spring. It holds the ball valve tighter so that the lifter dosen't fully pump up till the upper RPM's, supposedly makes running a large cam easier.

it actually idled good at 900 i had to bring the set screw out on the t-body which prob brought the tps voltage to like .71 it was at .69 before after that it idled without a skip.

exhaust note changed in a good way you couls hear the cam doing its thing.

oh yeah and i also rerouted the heater core coolant line away from the valve cover. might leave it where it is havent decided yet.

[3400-95-Modified]

the shorter length should allow for a better chance for them to fill up.

Get the coolant in there and start it up and run it for a good 10-15 min, varrying rpm. you may get lucky.

[geldartb]

mayeb the stock pushrods arent long enough to fill up the lifters like they would be with the other pushrods.

And with the timing chain and gears i had a printout from alldata with pictures and set the timing that way, and made sure before it went back into the car. i get what your saying pocket-rocket and thats the only thing i havent taken apart yet

i wouldnt beat the shit out the engine cause for the simple fact that all this stuff cost money and i dont exactly have an extra 2grand lying around to buy another engine and cam.

[3400-95-Modified]

I think if that was the sound of valve to piston contact due to improper timing he would have bent a valve by now and had no compression in one cylinder, but he did a compression check and they all came back at acceptable pressures.

I told him to check to see if stock pushrods had preload and apparently they have just a little, I wouldn't say its enough to drive or beat on the car but its enough to test it.