Home Made Fuel Injector Cleaning Machine

[60dgrzbelow0]

In keeping with trying to identify the fundamental parts and pieces for those having a serious interest in building their own, homespun EFI Cleaning Machines...here is yet another important component... albeit a higher end, commercial unit than might be actually needed...but one still up for bids/grabs... that is needed to do at least one half of the cleaning process (Ultrasonic Machine)...and in a bizarre note of serendipity to my overall engine focus here of late on the V6 Camaro Engine... this cleaning machine holds "3.4L"...

http://cgi.ebay.com/COMMERCIAL-GRADE-3-5-QUART-3-4L-ULTRASONIC-CLEANER_W0QQitemZ290380902840QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item439c0cf1b8

[tkoforpresident]

I hate to be such a bother as it were, but I'd like to know a little more about the removal of the fuel lines at the fuel rail itself. IIRC there are two metal lines going into the fuel rail that are held down by a metal bracket and a hex screw but I never thought of that as a possibility when it came to removing the fuel lines. What tool exactly did you use to disconnect those lines? I'd REALLY hate to have to remove the UIM since i abhor the job entirely but maybe if you can walk me through that small step then i will be able to get this job done in an afternoon or so.

In fact, before i try my second shot at "tooning" as you like to call it, I'd like to get a number of things done to eliminate as many of the "outside" issues causing my "tooning" to be more troublesome than i would have originally wished.

This short list includes installing the freshly cleaned 18.2lb/hr injectors you so kindly have sent me, as well as a fresh oil/filter change, new oxygen sensors, and some fresh gasoline. Hopefully I can have these things done in a reasonable time frame as time/space/money allows, but installing these injectors will be the hardest job, to be sure.

[60dgrzbelow0]

I hate to be such a bother as it were, but I'd like to know a little more about the removal of the fuel lines at the fuel rail itself. IIRC there are two metal lines going into the fuel rail that are held down by a metal bracket and a hex screw but I never thought of that as a possibility when it came to removing the fuel lines. What tool exactly did you use to disconnect those lines? I'd REALLY hate to have to remove the UIM since I abhor the job entirely but maybe if you can walk me through that small step then i will be able to get this job done in an afternoon or so.

In fact, before I try my second shot at "Tooning" as you like to call it, I'd like to get a number of things done to eliminate as many of the "outside" issues causing my "Tooning" to be more troublesome than I would have originally wished.

This short list includes installing the freshly cleaned 18.2lb/hr injectors you so kindly have sent me, as well as a fresh oil/filter change, new oxygen sensors, and some fresh gasoline. Hopefully I can have these things done in a reasonable time frame as time/space/money allows, but installing these injectors will be the hardest job, to be sure.

Max..

The video I mentioned in my email has been uploaded here...

http://s557.photobucket.com/albums/ss19/60dgrzbelow0/HOMEMADEEFICLEANER/

As for removing the Fuel Rail... The only thing holding the rail to the Intake Manifold is One (1) 10mm Bolt/Nut combo at the front, passenger side of the Fuel Rail that serves the double duty of securing the spring metal clamp that supports the female EFI Harness leading to the the ECM ...and the other fastener...at the rear, passenger side Fuel Rail section where the Closed Circuit Fuel Lines dwell... is (1) 10mm Bolt that needs to removed completely to allow the swing end of the metal plate securing the Dual Fuel Lines into the Fuel Rail to move...contingent of course on the loosening of the Torx Screw that only needs a light loosening tweak to allow the plate to rotate around and free the Fuel Lines.

The difficulty in doing this comes in the form of the very close quarters you must work in. Jacking up the car and setting it on Jack Stands will save your back and give your eye more freedom to look at what you won't really be able to see once your hands get busy in "The Cave" under the engine cowl. You will need to modify some tools or find the right ones to fit in this area.

I know it might seem puzzling as to why you don't just loosen the 8mm Clamp on the support bracket that secures the interface between the two incoming Nylon Fuel Lines to the Dual Metal Fuel Lines and, after separating the lines from each other, ...just lifting out the Fuel Rail WITHOUT having to remove the two Steel Fuel Lines... but sadly... The Dual Fuel Lines will stop your progress when you try to pry out the Six (6) Fuel Injectors from the LIM... still nested inside the Fuel Rail and the in-port holes of the Intake Manifold. I like to have a cardboard rack made up in advance inside of a large, ZipLock Bag...so when the Injectors come out and they go on my "FrankInjector"... I can 'Gleam the Cube' of why certain ones perform poorly...depending upon where they are installed in the motor. If you do this... follow the Normal Firing Order as your method of charting to keep things understandable.

Remember this Max... It is imperative that every last speck of dirt be cleaned off of the LIM and EFI Fuel Rail before and during the time when the Fuel Rail is finally removed. Clean so well that not one tiny bit of grit can tumble down the EFI ports and FUBAR the pistons, cylinders and rings with scratches and wear. Remove the EFI Harness B4 you start to use strong solvents in that area and use plenty of rags to soak up all of "The Mung" that will certainly be in these knobby areas. The attached photograph will show the parts that need to be unfastened and removed ...or swiveled out of the way. If you have to do any more really heavy cleaning...just remove the Six (6) Old Injectors off of the Fuel Rail and after carefully cleaning the EFI Port Holes in the LIM...spray the old EFIS down with some Brake Cleaner and after oiling up the O-Rings on each EFI... just slip them right back into the holes...without the Fuel Rail...so you can spray and scrub the LIM to your heart's content and the use plenty of Brake Cleaner and later compressed air to dry and blow any residual dirt off the LIM and EFIs. Make sure you have disconnected the battery in case you have anybody anxious to turn the ignition to listen to the radio while you are under the hood. Place the proper soak up rags in and around the fuel lines and bag them immediately afterward... get those gasoline soaked rags the Hell out of the garage and away from any possible ignition source in those close quarters. I have One Simple Rule...When It Comes To Working With Fuel... Have a decent sized ABC Fire Extinguisher close to the work area and also have an escape plan if are working inside of any confined space and a fire instigates. This is not a trivial matter ...ever! It is always best to do this work out in the open air and away from faulty light switches, oil heaters...etc. that can serve to turn your car into a fuel bomb if anything bad happens. I used small ZipLock Bags to cover the ends of each Steel Fuel Line and Rubber Bands to keep any residual fuel from continuously leaking out by capillary action or gravity. When you lift out the lines...try to pull them straight up as a set...so as not to damage what looks like "Leather inside of Brass" leak-proof seals. That about does it... It won't be easy and you WILL curse my name B4 the job is done...but...it will be easier in the long run than having to R&R any manifolds...

[tkoforpresident]

Bob, this is all very very helpful information!

I see now that it will not be half as difficult as removing the whole intake plenum with the fuel rail "nestled inside like a new born babe".

With this in mind i cannot tell you how happy i am to have a fresh set of injectors waiting to be installed that are cleaned up, spraying perfect (thanks to you), and at a good lb/hr rating that will hopefully satisfy my needs.

and good news, i already have an extinguisher thanks to my prior "cam break in" procedures lol

[60dgrzbelow0]

Max... I hope you like "RagTime" Music, Brother... because when it comes to doing this job properly...it WILL be RAG TIME. You will need more cleaning rags than you bring out with you to the car at first... I call them F*ckers.... "Mung Chuckers: ....

By the By...Here is my favorite from Scott Joplin: The Maple Leaf Rag

(No...it's NOT The National Anthem of Canada!)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMAtL7n_-rc&feature=related

Okay... Okay... No More 15 Cups of Moca Choka...Hottay Lattay for this Dude before showtime ...LOL

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bFwDkh3sW0&feature=related

[60dgrzbelow0]

Bob, this is all very very helpful information!

I see now that it will not be half as difficult as removing the whole intake plenum with the fuel rail "nestled inside like a new born babe".

With this in mind i cannot tell you how happy i am to have a fresh set of injectors waiting to be installed that are cleaned up, spraying perfect (thanks to you), and at a good lb/hr rating that will hopefully satisfy my needs.

and good news, i already have an extinguisher thanks to my prior "cam break in" procedures lol

Oh yes... I remember my "Camshaft Break-In Procedures" list... Do you think I should find a place to post it on the forum? Perhaps later as a write up...

[60dgrzbelow0]

Max... I'm still waiting for a response to my last email to you... RSVP when you get a minute so I know how to proceed.

[tkoforpresident]

Max... I'm still waiting for a response to my last email to you... RSVP when you get a minute so I know how to proceed.

Just heard from him, he says' he will take the set. I gave him your email addy so you guys can hammer out the details, expect an email shortly from him.

max

[60dgrzbelow0]

Okeedoke...

[60dgrzbelow0]

A Stalking Horse ...Wins the Race...

As you all know...the original start of this thread concerned my difficulty in finding the electronic means to actuate and control a bank of Six (6) EFIs in such a manner as to evenly control the flow of fuel through each of them and manage to activate and stimulate them to show their strengths and weaknesses and point the way to taking remedial action. While trying to find the appropriate tool for this purpose, I had to settle on using Dual OTC Fuel Injector Testers because using only one OTC Device was insufficient in the power and amperage to symmetrically control more than Three EFIs at any given time. But recently... I stumbled on a device on eBay that I thought might be the perfect solution to the problem... and perhaps even offer more ways to improve the testing procedures.


For the past Four Days... I've been following the progress of that TIF EFI Tester on eBay and this evening... I managed to "lurk" on it until about 1:40 secs prior to the end of the offering ...and grab it for $29.00 + S&H. Now I'm not certain if my next observation will be well received... because I don't know how many people there are that have the certain knowledge I am about to reveal as it concerns:

How to BID and WIN ALMOST every time on eBay:

For those who regularly shop on eBay and know all the ropes as to how to maximize their chances of winning... Forgive me this explanation on behalf of those here who may not. I only know about this because I found out how the process works entirely by accident. The situation involved our need for a new Central Air Conditioning Air Handler Ferris Wheel Blower...and of course this item I found was the only one of its kind and shortly to be gone as the offer had only an hour or so before ending. Long story short... I was so completely determined to get that damned air impeller that I bid an outrageous amount while sitting in a house in the middle of June in the sweltering heat. Well...longer story foreshortened ...I won the item in question... but NOT at the price I was willing to pay that may have been three times its actual value ... but at the price that was offered by the NEXT TO THE LAST BIDDER... which was better for me in so many ways... and which left me completely astonished.

Puzzled that perhaps I would eventually be billed for the balance of what I had offered...I waited for almost a week until I realized that this must really be the way to win on eBay... and not take it in the neck while trying to fend off all the "Great Unwashed Heathens" trying to beat me out of the things I need. It follows that I gave this a try on several other occasions where the bidders were quite numerous and the competition hot and heavy to win. I came to the understanding soon after that there really are only two important tactics in making this work:

(1) Wait until under Two Minutes before making your presence known... any sooner and all you will do is throw more blood into the water and invite the bid price to climb even higher.

(2) Then...When you finally make your move... move boldly... if you really want to win... don't try to do it by halves or fractions ...make your offer at least twice or even three times what you think the item is worth...and let the Beaters chase their tails and try to catch you as the clock rapidly ticks down to Zero. In the end you will win the item at whatever the LAST BID PRIOR TO YOUR BID IS.

That is all there is to it. It's not a perfect system because there is always another "Lurker" out there who is keener and more determined than you are who might win over your biggest bid on occasion. And by "Lurking instead of Leaping" right up until the Last Two Minutes...if the bidding amongst the others does manage to raise the price too high....then let them have it...and wait for the next BBD (Bigger and Better Deal) to come along. But most of the time... these tactics work and will succeed. I hope this is useful information and serves to help others save money and get the items they require. Best of Luck to All!


And now to the images of this device (My First, Last and Best Offer by the way...was $150.00). I've included an image of the ASNU EFI Machine to show as contrast to "The FrankInjecter" Machine... It is a splendid money maker for "The Big Boys"... But they won't be getting One Red Cent ...from me!

When this device arrives... I will plug the harness into "The FrankInjector" Machine and see what it is capable of doing...

[60dgrzbelow0]

Just heard from him, he says' he will take the set. I gave him your email addy so you guys can hammer out the details, expect an email shortly from him.

max

Okay Max... Received Carl's Message and replied with an echo to you...

[tkoforpresident]

lol Bob, you sure are formal hahah. Just covering your a$$, i know i know...

Thanks again for the favor, I've been helping carl out from time to time as he's been calling me (long distance) about his 3.4 car troubles, in fact thats really the only way i know him hahah (some kind of relationship huh?... oh wait, that sounds a lot like you and me! )

anyhow, i'll be installing the injectors you sent me asap and then sending you my 19lb injectors to dick around with and/or keep if these new ones work as well as i know they should.

max

[60dgrzbelow0]

Okeedoke...

Yes... I know it was a bit formal...But without knowing whether he understands the difference between a favor between friends...and sharing my personal information with every Swinging D*ck in the Free World about... "Say.... Guess what I just got done to my EFIs for FREEEE....!!!"...Then I would wind up with UPS, FEDEX and USPS Delivery Trucks lined up like Freight Cars leading from my house all the way down to the highway trying to deliver EFIs UP THE YIN-YANG... Know what I mean?... Whereas.... You...and I... are Friends. So send them 19lb Bad Boys any time you like... By the way...if the ones I sent you do NOT work out... I'll get you a set of Stock Ones if you need them instead! No Worries... The 19lbrs will be returned when and if they are as ...Clean as Kleenex!

[60dgrzbelow0]

Uh Ohhhh... (Whoops)

So the TIF Model 357EFI EFI Tester that I grabbed off of eBay for a mere $29.00 arrived today...and so I thought I would just wipe it down and plug in a few Rochester Multechs into several of the eight EFI connectors. Lo and behold... when I connected the two 12 Volt Power Leads up to the adapted ATX Computer Power Supply...(correct polarity, mind you)... The Power Light came on the unit for about a second or two...and then I heard a snapping spark... and suddenly ...acrid smoke started pouring out from around the switch block. DAMMIT! So I killed the power and tore the unit apart and saw that adjacent to the single Red LED area...there was a tiny resistor that was fried blacker than last years BBQ Grill. I suppose I could R&R the resister if I could read the color codes on the unit. If I shoot some images and post them here... do you suppose that there might be somebody with a clue as to how I might UNF*CK myself with this handy little testing tool and do the repair? The Base MOBO of the unit is very sturdy and the soldering side is easy to work on. I am very puzzled as to why it went up in smoke so easily because it is designed to hook directly up to a Car Battery...and with only 12 Volts @ 5 Amps coming out of the ATX PS... I can't imagine that it would have harmed the unit versus using a Car Battery with over 600 Cold Cranking AMPS available to power up the damned thing. Anybody?

[robertisaar]

odd... so the resistor for the LED blew up? or is it for another component?