Project: L-body headers

[ForcedFirebird]

WOW! That's a lot of welds to make the long tubes. I feel for you man

Do you remember what the radii in inches was on those bends? All the mandrels I started with was 2.5" to center line. No way am I close to that firewall on the rear ROFL.

Thnx for the pics Dave!

[Superdave]

ok, here is how my crossover is laid out...



about 3.5" between the front head and the collector



2" between the thermo port and the crossover, it sits maybe 1/4" from the housing but i never had any issues.



around 5" between the rear head and the crossover.




This shows the routing of the shift cables in a HM282 Jbody app..




i have one of the L body coolant lines but it's in the Z24 which is under a tarp outside. I never tested it with my headers since i wasn't using the heater core.

[IsaacHayes]

Cool, hopefully the later year fans is all that is needed to fit and the 3100 crowd won't have to do anything.

[ForcedFirebird]

I moved #2 primary in to the block and swung the other even primaries around to take up some length, and that's what caused the issue with the OPSU. The S&S #2 was closer to the block and down more, that's why you guys had to move the OPSU before. They stick out past the block almost identical to one another when looking straight down on the engine, but I want everyone to be aware of what it will take to install the headers before they get them...

Alan's car will tell all!

[IsaacHayes]

John, how much more do these stick out vs SS as far as fan fitment?

Oh, and you might want to grab the other metal line that goes to the heater core when you get the front one. the one that goes to the LIM, just in case for the rear fitment.....

[ForcedFirebird]

OK. I'm gonna have to go to the junk yard and get one. It will be hard to tell with pics on that one, but it appears when the x-over gets cut off to be turned down, it will follow the stock heat shield, but we shall see.


Either that, or the 3500 coolant lines can be included ROFL, I think there's three or five here haha.

I need to be 99% sure when Alan get's here. Really don't want to have to strip and re-coat them for fit, but whatever it takes, the guys having them shipped will be spot on.

The 45* 1/4" NPT isn't a big deal and probably should be done regardless to keep it away from the heat. Even though these are coated, they will still get hot w00t.

[IsaacHayes]

John, that OPSU is the short one... (idiot light only). The one for the gauge will defiantly need an adapter to move it away. I'll see on my L-A1/X9/32 motor how it sits wit a 45* and snap a pic, but I think it's fine.

That coolant line is waaay different than a 3100 L body. Well, it's the same where I was worried about, but towards the end the L body one goes down, not up... So routing of the cross over after where yours is now will need to be checked. Here is a pic:



And here is another, Notice the pipe is loose from the water housing, but still gives you an idea.

[Superdave]

looks pretty good but that's not the front coolant line that the L bodies or J bodies use with 3x00 engines.


I'll post pics of everything in a little while..

[ForcedFirebird]

Transmission clearance...



Oil pressure sender interference...



Coolant line clearance...



Dipstick clearance...



Right there where the jig is parallel to the group of primaries is where the other set was beat to death. Because I put two on top, there's ample room there...



and finally, the thermostat housing can be removed...

[IsaacHayes]

Cross over has to be modded at least on the SS's since that is connected to the rear and the whole thing moves down. Gen 2 covers look like old school. You could engrave something there like the Chevy Beretta pace car motor, or do whatever. Polish it up, paint the rest black, etc. Just check for rocker clearance, that should be the only issue.

[geldartb]

well have to get John to make some for the N-body crowd. the front and crossover should be the same its the rear one that would have to be different.

without digging for Jon's thread, i dont think he modified the front header or the crossover. its been awhile since ive seen that thread.

never thought of the Gen2 valve cover. ill have to see if theres anything that old school at the yard. i always use a funnel, spilling oil pisses me off.

[IsaacHayes]

88GTU, I'm just saying more will be sold if they fit without mods. I don't trust a rubber hose to blow off the metal pipe. That's 2 more points of failure, and I don't own any fancy flaring tools, or a welder. Plus I think it looks tacky having chopped up stuff like that patched with hose. It shouldn't be an issue to get them to clear it, just need to slap one on to check. There is room, just need to make sure it's in the right area to clear.

Brandon, these headers won't fit your car though!! Unless you want to re-angle them!! Since you have that coolant line, you should try putting on a Gen2 front valve cover. Then you could paint whatever text you wanted there on the front... Just use a funnel and fill the oil through the PCV hole. That's what I would do .... Gen2 cover looks cool. Hell I use a funnel anyway as to not get oil spilled on the painted engine parts now. Not that I spilled it often before, but I don't take chances now.

EDIT: I'm not sure a L body could fit a rubber hose there... N body IIRC has more space between the fender and the front of the of the engine... I can't get a socket down there I know to loosen the tensioner, have to use a special tool that is not even 1/4" thick/wide to slide between the engine and the accessories..

[geldartb]

or you can get the coolant tree like i did and run the hose like the minivans had it.
routed it along the pass side like the minivan. its out of the way and allows removal of the valve cover without disturbing the coolant system.

where it gets to the firewall i used an L shaped hose coming off the heater core. nothing is close to the header.

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h5/95blackz26/Grand%20Am/026-1.jpg

this car below will take some equal length headers too.

[1988GTU]

Modding the coolant tube is going to be a lot easier than reworking the front header.
If you're modding your car to this extreme, you shouldn't have any issues making the headers work.


Time to gain a new skill for those that dont know how to fabricate.

[IsaacHayes]

John, sounds like it will clear the OPSU, and 45* angle is what is already on my motor to clear the S&S (Jon used a spark plug insulator instead though).

Cutting the coolant hard line and using rubber isn't something I really want to do, or have the tools to, and I'm sure others won't as well. If you had one there I think you could work around it, just by angling the collector some.